developments in nail lacquers a time for change


power. But, this wasn’t the nail polish we know and love today. Born out of the basics that were egg whites, beeswax, gelatin and Gum Arabic, coloured with vegetable dyes, the Zhou Dynasty used different blends to colour their talons.


In 50BC Egypt, Cleopatra became among the first to apply colour solely to her fingertips, unlike Queen Nefertiti who earlier had popularised the henna painting and staining of hands.


After the fall of the Roman Empire, nail painting fell into decline with European access to nail polish ingredients falling away. It wasn’t until the Renaissance, when new connections were made with Africa and the Middle East in the 17th Century, that Europeans started to paint their nails again.


19th and 20th century


The first new nail salon opened in France in 1870, yet there was still no sign of the nail lacquer with which we are familiar. Instead nails were often buffed and polished with creams, tinted oils and powders to create a shiny finish, which is no doubt why we refer to the liquid we apply to our nails today as ‘polish’.


One type of ‘polish’ that was particularly popular during the 19th and early 20th Century was Graf’s Hyglo nail polish paste – a clear polish which was applied to the nail with camel-hair brushes to give them an immediate shine. It wasn’t until 1917 that Cutex refined a version of automobile paint to create a red coloured polish which could cover up unsightly nails.


During World War One, the US received chemical patents for Nitrocellulose, the ingredient heavily used in today’s lacquers, from the Germans. Following this, they then went on to produce pink polish, the second colour available for ladies to use on their nails.


From here, manicure parlours started to become commonplace. During the 1920s and 1930s, the fashion amongst flappers was to paint the central part of the nail plate, leaving the cuticle and top of the nail colour free. This became known as the moon manicure – arguably an early form of nail art. Little did anyone realise that nail art would become the phenomena it is today.


commercial


The first commercial polish came from the Charles Revson Company – commonly known today as Revlon – who marketed their


first nail polish in department stores in 1932, quickly followed by companies including Elka, Bluebird and Glaso.


Hollywood widened the audience for red nails through colour movies and during the 30s and 40s, red nails and lips were worn to demonstrate femininity – one of the many reasons why we love to paint our nails today.


Yet in the 21st Century we are not restricted in the colours that we can choose from. Not only are there an array of shades and brands, there is also an increase in the variety of formulas available. From traditional to gel effect polishes and their hybrid sister gel polish, clients are spoilt for choice when it comes manicure effects. New changes in ingredients have led to the development of food-enriched lacquers, vegan polishes, wash-off formulas or graffiti-style spray on manicures. Each one of these polishes contains a refined combination of ingredients to provide the best results for clients who have come to demand more from their everyday manicure.


the basis


Typically a polish is formulated with film- forming agents, resins and plasticisers, solvents and colouring agents.


Nitrocellulose acts as a film-forming agent to harden the colour. Synthetic resins and plasticisers are mixed to improve flexibility and resistance to soap and water, with ingredients such as Castor oil, amyl and butyl stearate and mixes of glycerol, fatty acids and acetic acids. Solvents then hold the colour pigments in the liquid until application, after which it evaporates. Often acting as a plasticiser too, butyl stearate and acetate are perhaps the most common ingredients used today.


In the 21st Century, polishes have been developed that are free from the damaging


ingredients that were once regularly used in our beloved nail enamels. Polishes no longer contain Dibutyl Phthalate (DBP), claimed to have harmful developmental and reproductive effects; Toluene, a hazardous ingredient found in gasoline or Formaldehyde, a carcinogen and environmental pollutant, and are known as 3- free polishes. The additional removal of the Formaldehyde Resin and Camphor are known as 5-free polishes. Some companies have even taken the extra step removing Xylene and parabens to create 7-free polishes.


However, the progression of nail polish potions has not stopped there. Select companies, such as Nails Inc .and Lallabee, have looked further into their polish formulations to create wash-off polishes, suitable for children and adults alike. Where Lallabee nail polishes are suitable for children who want to look like mum without the semi- permanence of nail polish, Nails Inc.’s H2GO 7-free wash-off polish is ideal for those adults who are unable to wear polish during prayer and need something which is quick and easy to remove.


On the other hand, we have polishes that strengthen the nail and create healthier plates with their use of superfood ingredients such as Kale and Cucumber to smooth, brighten and prevent peeling of the nails. If consumers demand more strengthened and shining nails, brands have created lines which are chip- resistant, hard wearing and gleam like a mirror.


It seems that whatever requests the modern day woman has of her nails, there has been a development made to deliver it. But with an expanding market and the importance of always striving to achieve the best you can, it must be asked, ‘what is next for the world of nail lacquer?’ Only time will tell.


Turn the page to discover the latest nail lacquer ranges available on the market…


90 GUILD NEWS


Image © iStock.com / AndreaAstes


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