sally penford writes


system that protects Retinol stability. This also allows us to place the Retinol in a water- soluble formula which gives enhanced penetration, meaning results are equivalent or superior to higher strength Retinol products that don’t use encapsulation technology, and with less irritation.


multimasking


The latest buzzword in skin care is 'multimasking' – that's using several different face masks at once to create a totally bespoke skin care experience.


Far from just another flash-in-the-pan trend, we skin therapists have been doing this for years as it's the most effective way to treat a multitude of skin concerns.


The latest buzzword in skin care is 'multimasking', which entails the therapist using several different face masks at once to create a totally bespoke skin care experience. Image © iStock.com/silvae


point toward the middle of the sphere and the water loving ends all point to the outside of the sphere where the rest of the water is. So oily debris is hidden away inside the micelle and simply wiped away.


However, with the majority of the population wearing sunscreens or other oil-based skin care and waterproof cosmetic products, a Micelle water or traditional cleansing product may not be enough to remove all oils from the skin. The nature of the oil-based skin care products require a stronger surfactant cleanser or an oil- based cleanser to provide a more thorough cleanse. The International Dermal Institute prefer the use of a cleansing oil as it is less stripping and ensures the skin’s barrier remains intact. Ideal, therefore, for a sensitive and/or oily skin condition.


When you use oil to remove oily dirt you’re employing the chemical principle called ‘like dissolves like.’ In other words, oils will dissolve other materials that have a similar chemical structure. As an example, the atoms in the cleansing oil (the solvent) are similar to the solute which is greasy make-up or skin oils (aka sebum). Ta-da – a perfect pairing.


Modern cleansing oils will attach to the oil- based substances on the skin and then emulsify and wash away when water is used to rinse the skin, giving a thorough and yet gentle method of cleansing.


encapsulated retinol


For those wanting to maximise skin health through the ageing process, Retinol is the ‘go to’ ingredient! According to Dr.Voorhees and his research team at the University of


Michigan, lotions containing Retinol were demonstrated to improve the appearance of skin that had wrinkled through the normal ageing process, not just skin that has been damaged by exposure to the sun. Researchers tested lotions containing 0.4% Retinol on one arm of each participant, while a lotion without Retinol was applied to the other arm. Wrinkles, roughness and overall ageing were all significantly reduced in the Retinol-treated arm compared with the control arm, according to the study, which appears in the Archives of Dermatology.


The study showed that the reduction of wrinkles was due to increased collagen production (that strengthens the skin) and a significant induction of glycosaminoglycans, which are known to retain large quantities of water, keeping tissues well hydrated.


The challenge in formulating skin care products with Retinol however, is that it is not photo-stable and degrades in the presence of oxygen and light. To maintain product efficacy and prevent deterioration, microencapsulation is an effective delivery


We need to educate our customers that our skin naturally has different needs in different areas – most women describe their skin as being combination, with oilier zones around the forehead and chin, breakouts and congestion on the nose and dryness around eyes and cheeks.


So how do they do it? Simply divide the face into four zones then mix and match the perfect products for each area’s needs. Yes, it's slightly more complicated than just slapping one product on all over, but not by much, and the benefits will far outweigh the effort required.


My favourite mask ingredient of the moment is Activated Charcoal! This charcoal has been heated to create micropores that increase the surface area and ability to adsorb toxins. The properties of activated charcoal make it an excellent choice for detoxifying and invigorating skin.


Sally Penford is UK and Ireland Education Manager for The International


Dermal Institute, with a breadth of knowledge across all skin care concerns. t: 08000 564 544


w: www.dermalinstitute.co.uk @Dermalinsitute


104 GUILD NEWS


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