Modeling an SCL E7B 10. 11.
10. The B-end of the engine has more detail than the A-end. This end features drop style grab irons as well as a unique corner grab iron on the roof. Styrene sills were added just above the m.u. hoses. 11. The only modification to the A-end was the place- ment of the styrene sills above the m.u. hoses. 12. The step at the fuel tank must be separated from the fuel tank skirts which have been removed. The fuel tank filler, sight glass and emergency fuel
12. 13.
cut-off switch have also been removed from the tank skirt and at- tached to the body. 13. Once painted, the shell was placed on the frame. With the fuel tank skirts removed, it became obvious that the top of the fuel tank would require major work. 14. The frame was modified for the new, more highly detailed fuel tank. The area at the center of the frame was notched with a cut-off wheel mounted in a Dremel Moto-Tool.
cals. When the yellow paint had dried (I like to give it a day or so) I masked off the horizontal stripes. The rest of the engine was painted with Polly Scale Engine Black. Be careful when removing the masking tape as some- times it can pull the black paint with it and create an edge. I always pull the tape back at as low of an angle as I can. I don’t usually airbrush a coat of
gloss over the paint prior to applying decals on a model like this. Instead, I added all of the decals and then fin- ished the model with Testors Model Master Semi-Gloss Clear paint. A little coat of Polly Scale Roof Brown along the lower surfaces adds that much needed layer of road grime. The last major piece of work was the fuel tank. The skirts were removed on the real thing to allow for easier mainte- nance. The skirts on the model leave the whole top side of the fuel tank exposed. Of course, there is absolutely no detail there. I ended up rebuilding the whole fuel tank, which necessitated a slight modification of the frame. I cut a bit of a
52
14.
notch into the metal frame with a cut-off wheel in my Dremel Moto-Tool. Inside the fuel tank I added two long strips of .060″×.188″ styrene. This gave me something to mount the top of the fuel tank to. I used .040″ quarter round for the top edge of the fuel tank. Strips of .040″×.040″ and .040″×.080″ styrene were added to the quarter round to build out the top of the fuel tank. The center sections of the fuel tank are higher than the outer sections so I built them up us- ing .080″× .080″ styrene. When attach- ing the quarter round to the existing tank I let the edge overhang the tank by .020″. I had to sheathe the fuel tank with .020″ sheet styrene to create a new fuel
tank wall. Leaving that overhang al- lowed the styrene tank wall to join the quart round cleanly. I sanded and filed the joints anyway so it didn’t matter if things didn't match up perfectly. At the bottom of the fuel tank I added .040″× .080″ styrene as furring strips. I wanted a little more depth to the fuel tank and these strips helped achieve that. The last thing I did was to add the
.020″ sheet styrene to create the walls of the fuel tank. I used cyanoacrylate to attach the styrene because I needed the quick and strong bond. I used Squadron green putty to fill in the seams and gaps. I smoothed everything out using different sanding sticks.
JUNE 2014
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