the future if necessary. In this in- stance, a 3mm LED is used so a #33 drill was used for this hole. Test fit the front, wide window casting into one of the cab openings; if all is well, glue the front window cab into place on the cab. The American Models chassis mounts the power trucks to the frame with a screw and two wash- ers. For the low hood to fit properly onto the chassis, remove the larger of the two washers from the forward truck and screw the truck back in. The openings for the number boards on either side of the head- lights need to filled in. Number board inserts were made from .020” styrene strip, cut to fit with the cor- ners rounded with a file to match the openings. Laminate this to a larger piece of strip so that the fin- ished number board could be slipped into the opening from inside
PARTS LIST American Models
GP9000 - GP-9/18 Locomotive, Undec Des Plaines Hobbies
SSA125 - GP Low Nose Kit
DPS163 - GP-20 Long Hood Kit GP-9 Brass Hand Rail and Stanchion Kit GP-18/20 Radiator Grills
Evergreen Scale Models .040” Styrene Sheet
Lights 4 Models U30 3mm LED’s
with Resistor and Bridge Rectifier
ABOVE: Adding the new low-nose and rear hood to the American Models frame and cab. LEFT: The primered body of our modified GP20 in gray, the unmodified GP9 in black.
to the unit and primed coated with the exception of the hand rails and stanchions. These should be assem- bled separately on the locomotive and then removed for priming both inside and out. After lettering is completed, finish coat the hand rails and stanchions and install.
—Will Holt SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT TO RAILROAD MODEL CRAFTSMAN MAGAZINE • BUILDING IN S SCALE s11
the casting and glued into place. Then glue the finished short hood in place. I made two 3/8” by 7/16” pieces from .040” styrene to fill the openings in the low walkways on ei- ther side of the short hood. Move on to removing the long
hood following the hints for remov- ing the short hood. Once the long hood is removed,
the opening must be widened along the raise portions of the walkway from the first step up to the cab. This allows the flat sides of the long hood to slide all the way up to the cab. Preresemble the long hood kit, again being sure that everything is square. Put the cab in place and test fit the long hood to be sure that it slides all the way in, fitting tightly against the cab. If necessary file the walkways and the long hood to fit properly. When you are happy with the fit,
glue the cab into place followed by the long hood. Be sure that the long hood is completely square on the frame. While the cab end of the hood centers easily because it slips
into the openings between the raised portions of the walkways, the nose end can be mis-placed. Use a 4-inch adjustable machinists square to assure that the long hood is center along its length. The long hood is centered if the measurement on both sides of the hood is 3/16” on ei- ther side. At this point, the level of detail de-
sired for the finished version is de- termined. There are small holes in the long hood to provide placement of such items as lift rings, nose- mounted grab irons to form the lad- der access to the roof of the hood, etc. If any of the details are not planned for the finished unit, fill the holes with small amounts of plastic body putty and smooth with an emery board being careful to not mar the surface of the long hood. Before final assembly, rewire the chassis. Provide for front and rear headlights. If DCC is to be used for control, install the decoder. At this stage, any and all details that will be painted should be added
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