NEWS DIGEST New results for actives
Greentech has announced new results for Silidine and Setiline. Silidine, a marine active, has a proved efficiency in vascular tonicity enhancement. Two new and particularly positive clinical tests show that Silidine decreases rosacea thanks to its vasoconstrictive action. The results show that the use of Silidine on
one of the volunteers during 28 days decreased face redness by 26%. In mean, the application of Silidine induced a significant decrease of 19% of rosacea on 86% of the volunteers. It is important to mention that Silidine,
an active for vascular tonicity in general, also has
Active ingredient
acquisition The industrial gas producer Air Products has acquired ROVI Cosmetics International, a developer and manufacturer of innovative active ingredients for the cosmetics industry from Schlüchtern in Germany. ROVI Cosmetics currently has 18 employees
and is a developer and manufacturer of innovative, science-based ingredients for the cosmetics industry. The active ingredients are used in hair and skin care products. "We are pleased to have completed
the acquisition of ROVI Cosmetics, thus reinforcing our 'care' portfolio. With this acquisition we reach critical mass in order to develop our business with a diversified supplier of specialty ingredients for the personal care industry." commented Pam Matti More, vice president and general manager, Performance Materials at Air Products.
Active repairs skin barrier
The skin is subjected to various stresses on a daily basis which lead to a deficiency in its barrier function. To accommodate epidermal restructuring, Silab developed Nachyline, which is rich in purified Torulaspora delbrueckii. This active ingredient regulates epidermal homeostasis by controlling calcium inflow into keratinocytes via the nicotinic acetylcholine receptor (nAChRs). Nachyline stimulates the formation of
adherens junctions, boosts keratinocytes differentiation, reinforces the cohesion and stratification of the epidermis, and contributes to the organisation of the stratum corneum. It can be integrated in all repair treatments.
an interesting action on heavy legs syndrome. The active, Setiline, demonstrates anti-ageing
properties thanks to its regenerating action on facial skin. Setiline keeps skin biomechanical properties as firmness, elasticity and flexibility. It also improves the global skin architecture and helps reduce wrinkles. The latest clinical tests, as skin resistance
measurement by cutometer, show that Setiline improves skin firmness in mean by 19% and elasticity by 28%. These results confirm that Setiline is a particularly recommended active in anti-ageing and regenerative skin face cares.
Natural oil and petrolatum
blends Calumet Penreco announced the launch of its new hybrid petrolatum products. These four new hybrid petrolatums combine Snow White Petrolatum USP with one of four natural oils: macadamia nut oil, avocado oil, safflower oil, and olive oil. These new hybrid petrolatums allow
formulators to incorporate higher percentages of renewable resources while maintaining the beneficial properties of the Snow White Petroleum. The key attributes of these innovative new hybrid blends include moisturisation and skin barrier protection and repair. Their rich feel and added smoothness make these blends especially suitable for skin care formulations. Potential applications include: skin care, lip care, sun care, hair care, ointments, bar soaps and bath products. “We recognised that consumers ask for
products that are natural or naturally derived but above all are effective and overall efficacy appears to be an issue with natural products. It is well documented that the moisturisation that petrolatum brings to the table is unsurpassed by any (natural or otherwise) product. Now with the new Calumet Penreco Hybrid Petrolatum blends, customers can have the best of both worlds – a natural product that offers the best moisturisation properties,” Rich Callahan, global sales manager for Calumet Specialty Products Partners LP, explained. “And we are very confident that our new products will live up to the expectations of consumers as well as formulators,” he added. Combining petrolatum with natural
ingredients like macadamia nut oil is the natural step to creating the best possible skin care products that still promote moisturisation; the most sought-after product requirement.
Study confirms efficacy on mature skin
To further support the prominent activity of Skinmimics, Evonik has performed a new study. Skinmimics is a unique, multi-lamellar delivery system based on high-tech biomimetic ingredients for improved bioavailability. It is a skin-identical composition made up of specific long chain ceramides, non-animal derived cholesterol and free fatty acid. This composition is combined with unique
signalling molecules (Sphingokines). The various ceramides contained in Skinmimics are based on Evonik’s advanced and deep knowledge in this technology.
8 PERSONAL CARE March 2012 Earlier in vitro and in vivo studies have already
shown that Skinmimics displays a three-in-one benefit, especially on mature skin. It provides protection by correction of membrane defects in the stratum corneum by topical application of skin barrier lipids. Prevention, the second benefit, is shown by
the induction of skin lipid synthesis and epidermal differentiation for improved barrier function from within. Finally, Skinimimcs stimulates and supports the epidermal renewal by activation of the skin’s natural water management system. This leads to skin regeneration.
Now, an additional in vivo study using
confocal Raman Spectroscopy fosters the previous findings. It could be shown that Skinmimics significantly replenishes the skin’s own protection barrier. Furthermore, this active is able to revitalise normal to dry skin by optimising the total epidermal moisturising system. Taking all study results into account, Skinmimics is an attractive ingredient for skin barrier protection formulations, skin regeneration and nourishing products. It fits very well with market concepts developed for mature skin.
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