Julian Smits and Norbert Herbst – Cosmetochem International AG, Switzerland ACTIVES
Effects of pomegranate flower complex on the skin
Today’s understanding of skin ageing describes two processes – intrinsic and extrinsic skin ageing. In both cases there is an imbalance between collagen breakdown and collagen synthesis which, in the long term favours collagen breakdown. Dermal fibroblasts play a significant role
in these processes and produce both the components of the extracellular matrix (ECM) and the enzymes responsible for its breakdown and restructuring.1
The main
components of the extracellular matrix are collagen and elastin fibres. Among other things they provide structure, softness and elasticity to the skin and absorb mechanical stresses.1
Matrix metalloproteinases (MMP)
possess endopeptidase activity and are also responsible for the breakdown and modelling of the ECM. There are more than 20 different known types of MMP.2 For the investigations into MMPs in skin- ageing processes, MMP-1, MMP-3 and MMP-9 are of interest because they induce the breakdown of collagen. Intrinsic or chronological skin ageing is
based on genetically determined loss in the skin’s ability to regenerate. Literature discusses three mechanisms responsible for this, continuous metabolic stress- induced reactive oxygen species (ROS), telomere shortening and changes in hormone balance.5,8
The number of dermal
fibroblasts drops, collagen breakdown increases and at the same time collagen synthesis decreases. Unlike extrinsic skin
ABSTRACT
The balance between collagen breakdown and collagen synthesis plays a crucial role in the extrinsic and intrinsic process of skin ageing. Environmental factors acting on the skin and genetically-determined processes cause an increase in collagen breakdown and at the same time a reduction in the synthesis of new collagen, which results in the increased appearance of wrinkles. One of the enzymes responsible for the breakdown of collagen is matrix metalloproteinase 1 (MMP-1). It has been demonstrated that an extract of pomegranate flowers reduces MMP-1 mRNA gene expression in UVA irradiated
ageing, the thickness of the skin is reduced and small, fine lines are formed.5,8 Skin ageing caused by external
influences is called extrinsic skin ageing. Extrinsic factors such as radiation, physical and mental stress, alcohol and nicotine, environmental toxins or poor nutrition lead to greater MMP production while at the same time reducing collagen synthesis.4,5 Among the ageing factors named, UV irradiation plays a major role. Photoageing, as it is known, describes the process of skin ageing caused by UV irradiation. UVB irradiation with a wavelength of 315 nm to 280 nm acts on the epidermis and damages the DNA of keratinocytes
Table 1: Composition of the cream formulation with 1% product content. Component Water
Portion [%] INCI CFTA 71.48 Water
Glycerin
Citric acid 50% Tego Care 4501
Tego Alkanol 68551 Myritol 3182
Jojoba oil (cold processed) PGFE/SAP3
Preservative 3.00 Glycerin 0.02 Water (and) Citric Acid
3.00 Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate 2.50 Cetearyl Alcohol
13.00 Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides 6.00 Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil
1.00 Maltodextrin (and) Punica Granatum Flower Extract (and) Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
qs Suppliers: 1 Evonik 2 Cognis 3 Cosmetochem
and non-irradiated primary human dermal fibroblasts. Due to this characteristic, the pomegranate flower extract (PGFE) was combined with sodium ascorbyl phosphate (SAP) into a single product (PGFE/SAP). SAP, a derivative of vitamin C, is a well- known antioxidant and collagen booster. The combined product made of PGFE and SAP (PGFE/SAP) was successfully tested for its safety in use both in vitro and in vivo. Results showed that PGFE/SAP promoted collagen synthesis, reduced the breakdown of collagen and measurably and visibly reduced the depth of facial wrinkles caused by skin ageing.
and melanocytes.5 The longer-wave UVA
irradiation (380 nm to 315 nm) also damages the epidermis but also penetrates into the dermis beneath. Here it acts on fibroblasts disturbing the synthesis of collagen and encouraging its breakdown.5 In addition, ROS are generated which are also evoked by the extrinsic ageing factors mentioned above.4,7,8
A thickening of the
skin, even a leathery appearance, count among the signs of extrinsic skin ageing together with pigmentation spots and the formation of deep wrinkles.4
In particular
areas of the skin affected are those which are continually exposed to the sun such as the face, the lower part of the neck/upper chest, the nape of the neck, hands and forearms. Wrinkles caused by solar irradiation and facial expressions develop particularly on the forehead (worry and frown lines), around the eyes (crow’s feet) and around the mouth. The common factors in both types of
ageing are the effects of ROS, and an increase in collagen breakdown coupled with a reduction of collagen synthesis. These common factors are possible starting points for modern anti-ageing strategies. Free radicals should be neutralised by topical or oral application of antioxidants. MMPs should be inhibited or their expression suppressed and collagen synthesis boosted.
March 2012 PERSONAL CARE 45
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