ANALYSIS
Table 1: New whitening body care launches in Asia, 2007-11 (source: Mintel GNPD). China Vietnam Philippines Thailand Indonesia Malaysia 46
2007 2008 2009 2010
YTD 2011
25 19 42 35
25 18 9
15 26
19 19 12 23 19
Trend Insight: arbutin Another emerging trend is the use of traditional South East Asian extracts in whitening formulas. Thanakha powder, ground from tree bark, is a traditional Burmese cosmetic used to cool and protect the skin. The powder is increasingly found in whitening face care, and is now appearing in body care too. Kalamansi, meanwhile, is a citrus fruit native to the Philippines where it is a popular beverage and is also used as a bleaching agent for clothes, hair and freckles.
What’s next? While plants yield new whitening ingredients, M&A activity may heat up in the Asian whitening category in the next year. New tyrosinase inhibiting actives introduced at in-cosmetics Asia include a grapevine root extract that claims
Skin esting Instruments
Skin Testin Instrumen
Efficacy Testing of Skin Lightening Mexameter®
MX 18 and Skin-Colorimeter CL 400
13 10 29 21 19
11 8
16 4 9
8 8
10 8
11
to be more potent than kojic acid, and 4-polyglyceroyl-3-methoxy cinnamic acid, which combines with copper ions to reduce melanin formation and prevent sun spots. Beijing Brilliance Biochemical previewed its Brillian-MB280 Raspberry Ketone Glucoside, a high tech active that claims to control melanogenesis. Other new multifunctional whitening
actives include Greentech’s complex of mulberry, cucumber and hibiscus to decrease melanogenesis and tyrosinase activity along with a patent-pending daisy flower extract from CLR. This multi-action ingredient is said to inhibit tyrosinase, reduce pro-melanogenic mediators endothelin and α-MSH (melanin-stimulating hormone) and limit melanosome transfer to keratinocytes. Unipex offers a brightening TGF-β biomimetic peptide encapsulated in a liposome. Many of these actives also
India 0
2 4
11 10
Taiwan 6
4 6 5 4
Japan Hong Kong 9
5 2 5 2
5 1 4 3 0
have antioxidant benefits and as demand for naturally derived whitening ingredients and multifunctional whitening grows, more of these actives will appear in new products in the coming years. Softto, a Chinese manufacturer of
whitening skin care and personal care products, suspended share trading at one point in 2011 amid rumours of a potential acquisition by Johnson & Johnson China. Although the company lost ¥10 million in the first half of the year, it posted double digit year on year revenue growth. Should the deal go ahead in 2012, it is likely that J&J will integrate the company into Beijing Dabao, which it bought in 2008. This would not only increase J&J’s market share, it would also strengthen its position against Unilever and Beiersdorf, both of which are more active in the whitening sector in Asia.
PC
measurement of Melanin & Erythema Index / Skin Colour (L*a*b*, RGB, ITA) operation of the probes with the MPA System and the MPA Software quick and easy handling sun screen products, self tanners, make ups, whitening products, decorative cosmetics and carotene food supplements
dermatological uses as aging spots, sun damage, etc. Please ask for more information:
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www.courage-khazaka.de
pc_0112.indd 1 15.12.2011 16:42:51 March 2012 PERSONAL CARE 67
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