HAIR CARE
Table 2: Typical gel properties of Biostyle CGP vs. other nonionic polymers. Description
PVP K-30 Gel with AMP PVP K-30 Gel with TEA PVP/VA Gel with AMP PVP/VA Gel with TEA Biostyle Gel with AMP Biostyle Gel with TEA
Polymer Solids, wt% 3.0
3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0
Viscosity was taken using a T-C spindle S-93, 10 rpm at 25°C.
maltodextrin/VP copolymer was compared to PVP K-30. In the comparison of the maltodextrin/VP copolymer to PVP/VA, the gel formulated with maltodextrin/VP copolymer was found to be statistically superior in gloss to the gel formulated with PVP/VA polymer. All other on-hair properties were found to be similar (see Table 4).
High-humidity curl retention The hold and humidity resistance of the maltodextrin/VP copolymer were evaluated and compared with those of PVP K-30 and PVP/VA. The curl retention was measured at 21˚C (70˚F) and 90% relative humidity (RH). In this test, 10-inch European brown
hair swatches were wetted and combed. The excess water was squeezed out and swatches were treated with the styling product, then rolled on a 0.5-inch Teflon mandrel. The rolled swatch was carefully removed from the mandrel, secured with two hair clips, and dried overnight. The dry curls were placed in a controlled
atmosphere (21˚C/50% RH) and allowed to equilibrate. The curls were suspended from the bound end of the swatch on graduated clear, transparent curl retention boards, and the clips were removed. Initial curl length readings were taken before placing boards and curls into the humidity chamber (21˚C/90% RH). Curl lengths were recorded at intervals of 15 minutes,
Table 3: Subjective on-hair performance of Biostyle CGP polymer vs. PVP K-30 and PVP/VA gels (neutralised with AMP).
Biostyle with AMP vs.
Description Gloss
Stiffness Dry comb Flake
Anti-stat Feel
K-30 gel with AMP NSD
NSD NSD NSD NSD +
NSD = no statistical difference. Negative (–) = the experimental is statistically inferior vs. the control. Positive (+) = the experimental is statistically superior vs. the control.
Table 4: Subjective on-hair performance of Biostyle CGP polymer vs. PVP K-30 and PVP/VA gels (neutralised with TEA).
Biostyle CGP with TEA vs.
Description Gloss
Stiffness Dry comb Flake
Anti-stat Feel
K-30 gel with TEA NSD
NSD NSD NSD NSD NSD
NSD = no statistical difference Negative (–) = the experimental is statistically inferior vs. the control. Positive (+) = the experimental is statistically superior vs. the control.
54 PERSONAL CARE March 2012
PVP/VA gel with TEA +
NSD NSD NSD NSD NSD
PVP/VA gel with AMP NSD
NSD NSD NSD NSD NSD
30 minutes, 1 hour, 90 minutes, and 2 hours, after which the percentage curl retention was calculated. As measured by high-humidity curl retention after 2 hours at 21˚C and 90% RH conditions, maltodextrin/VP copolymer offered no significant difference in style retention compared with PVP K-30 and PVP/VA polymers (Fig. 2).
Conclusion Natural products are continuing to increase in popularity within the personal care market. The growing demand for more natural and sustainable products has marketers from prestige to mass working to incorporate more natural and sustainable ingredients into their brands – for the good of the Earth as well as sales. As consumers continue to exhibit their strong desire for hair styling products with high performance and pleasing aesthetic properties, it is a continuing challenge for the formulator of styling products to create systems that meet the consumers’ desire for increased sustainability as well as their demand for high performance. With Biostyle CGP polymer, the formulator can create more natural and sustainable gels and styling products with no compromise on clarity, performance or gel aesthetics. Biostyle CGP is a new hybrid polymer
that represents a new option for creating hair styling products that are more natural and sustainable. It features performance equivalent to, or better than, PVP K-30 and VP/VA polymers along with more than 50% renewable composition. In formulation, the polymer yields excellent gel clarity, viscosity and aesthetic properties. With Biostyle CGP polymer, the formulator can meet consumers’ demands for more natural hair styling products and achieve excellent performance with a more natural, renewable and sustainable ingredient.
PC
Acknowledgements The author wishes to acknowledge the following people from AkzoNobel Global Personal Care for their help in generating the performance data presented and assisting in the writing of this article: Maryalice Belluscio, Amanda Evers, Michael T. Philbin, and Melissa Vitale.
Carbomer, wt.% 0.5
0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5
pH
6.29 6.29 6.15 6.43 6.34 6.42
Viscosity (cps) 42,736
42,273 42,991 45,745 45,527 47,245
Turbidity (ntu) 9.02
8.57
14.90 11.80 11.50 10.80
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