HAIR CARE
preferred rheology, low turbidity resulting in exceptional gel clarity, performance at low use levels (hair gels: 4%-24%; mousse: 8%-24%; creams and lotions (4%-24%) making it cost-effective. It is a low viscosity liquid making it easy to use. Its performance is equivalent to that of PVP K-30 or PVP/VA, enabling excellent formulating latitude and broad range of use making it easy to incorporate into existing product formulations. Its compatibility with commonly used formulation ingredients results in robust and reliable performance and ease of formulation. It has an alcohol tolerance up to 15%, enabling broad range of use. It is nonionic, enabling excellent compatibility with commonly used gel ingredients, and no neutralisation is required, which helps streamline formulations and reduce cost.
Formulation guidelines Supplied as a ~25% active solution (preserved) in water, maltodextrin/VP copolymer is very low in viscosity and simple to use. The polymer is carbomer- compatible, and should be added to the batch after the carbomer has been neutralised. Maltodextrin/VP copolymer can be formulated from 1%-6% polymer solids in hair styling gels and mousses. For optimal clarity in carbomer gels, the polymer should be formulated between a pH of 6.0 and 6.5. Maltodextrin/VP copolymer is soluble
in water as well as water and ethanol solutions and it does not require neutralisation. Other polymers in the final formulation (such as carbomer) should be neutralised as recommended by the manufacturer. In addition to being compatible with
carbomer, the polymer is compatible with most common gel additives – including, but not limited to, panthenol, silicones, sorbitol, EDTA, GLDA, polyethylene glycols and polypropylene glycols. It has limited compatibility with benzophenone-4. In addition, as listed in Table 1, it is compatible with other rheology modifiers, including the Structure Cel series (Ethylhydroxyethyl cellulose), Natrosol 250HHR CS(Hydroxyethylcellulose), Structure 2001 (Acrylates/Steareth-20
Natrosol 250HHR CS Carbopol Ultrez 21 Structure 2001
% Solids 2.00
0.50 2.00
1.50 100
80
60
40 20
Biostyle CGP PVP K-30 PVP/VA
0 0 0.5 1.0 Time in humidity (hours) Figure 2: High humidity curl retention of nonionic hair gels.
Itaconate Copolymer), and Carbopol Ultrez 21 (Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer).
Performance properties Hair gels formulated with maltodextrin/VP copolymer have similar gel properties when compared to gels formulated with PVP K- 30 and PVP/VA at equivalent use levels. Carbomer gels that are neutralised with Aminomethyl Propanol (AMP) or Triethanolamine (TEA) show similar properties when formulated with maltodextrin/VP copolymer (see Table 2).
On-hair subjective performance Subjective evaluations were conducted by trained panellists on hair tresses to determine how the performance of maltodextrin/VP copolymer compared with that of PVP K-30 and PVP/VA. Paired comparisons of eight sets of hair tresses were conducted. Tresses were treated with gels comprised of 3% polymer/0.5% carbomer and compared with gels comprised of the same polymer and thickener levels. The panellists evaluated the dry swatches and were forced to pick
Table 1: Biostyle CGP polymer with various thickeners and their gel properties. Thickener
pH
6.14 6.19 6.22
Structure CEL 12000M1.50 6.39 Structure 2001
6.31
Viscosity (cps) 27,580
34,730 73,180 26,620 28,170
Clarity (visual)
Translucent, yellow tint with fibres Clear Clear
Translucent, yellow tint with fibres Clear
one swatch over the other for each performance attribute. The data were reported at a 95% confidence level. Attributes evaluated included hair gloss, on- hair stiffness, combability of dry hair, gel flaking, static and dry hair feel. While the maltodextrin/VP copolymer
requires no neutralisation, the carbomer thickening agent must be neutralised. Two different neutralising agents, (2-amino- methyl propanol and triethanolamine) were evaluated. When maltodextrin/VP copolymer was compared with PVP K-30 polymer in the gels using AMP as a neutralising agent, no statistical difference was seen on any property with the exception of dry hair feel. In this case, the gel formulated with maltodextrin/VP copolymer was found to provide a significantly improved clean, natural after-feel on dry hair compared with the gel formulated with PVP K-30 polymer (see Table 3). When maltodextrin/VP copolymer was
compared with PVP/VA, the panellists did not detect any statistical difference on any of the parameters assessed. When TEA was employed as the
neutraliser, no statistical difference was seen on any property when the
Turbidity (ntu) 22.5
14.6 12.2 35.6 8.4
March 2012 PERSONAL CARE 53 1.5 2.0
Curl retention (%)
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