Gabrielle Moro, Pierre-Yves Morvan, Romuald Vallée – Codif Recherche et Nature, France
ANTI-AGEING
Restructuring extra cellular matrix to reduce wrinkles
With age, negative expressions have a tendency to become set as the skin loses its elasticity, and positive expressions lose their structure as the skin starts to sag. While crow’s feet are considered as being smile wrinkles, forehead lines on the other hand harden the gaze. Deeper and deeper, nasal furrows with the appearance of circumoral wrinkles indicate bitterness. In young women, high cheekbones and a tapering chin form what is called a triangle of beauty. In older women, forehead lines and nasal furrows delineate an inverse triangle of beauty (Fig. 1). Natural ageing of the skin is the result
of a slow, progressive and genetically determined process. With age, the genes that code for the synthesis of the dermal structural molecules – elastin, collagen and hyaluronic acid – enter a ‘sleeping phase’. The dermal matrix loses its structure and the skin loses its firmness, fixing in long term lines and accentuating wrinkles. To fight this genetically programmed
inversion of the triangle of beauty, Codif Recherche et Nature has developed an extract of fertile bases of Undaria pinnatifida called Matrigenics.14 G. This new active ingredient is rich in wakamic ester. Its activity is to reactivate genes that have gone to sleep.
The blade of Undaria pinnatifida is denticulated with a central nerve running through it. The stipe is flat. At maturity, the edges of the stipe widen and become wavy (Fig. 2). These new tissues called fertile bases or mekabu contain the spores by which the species is able to reproduce. When released into the sea, the spores
swim to a rocky substrate where they attach themselves and germinate to create a new alga. The fertile bases represent a concentration of life that not only ensures the reproduction of the algae but its survival across the centuries. To assess the benefit of these fertile
Undaria pinnatifida (wakame).
Undaria pinnatifida Undaria pinnatifida, also called wakame, is a brown macro-alga from Asia where it is grown on ropes and then eaten. It has been introduced into a large number of areas all around the world, either by ships or with Japanese oyster spat. Codif Recherche et Nature cultivates wakame in a protected area of the Rance estuary (Brittany – France) on a system of submerged ropes.
bases for ageing skin, Codif Recherche et Nature isolated them from the rest of the alga to extract their compounds. Their laboratory has discovered a sulphated galactofucan called wakamic ester. This new molecule is able to activate the genes involved in the synthesis and organisation of the main components of the extra cellular matrix: collagen, elastin and proteoglycans.
Fourteen genes involved in restructuring the dermal matrix reactivated The effect of Matrigenics.14 G (now referred to as ‘the Undaria pinnatifida extract’) on the gene’s expression of the extra-cellular matrix has been evaluated on
Fertile base
Figure 1: Inversion of ‘triangle of beauty’ with ageing.
Figure 2: Undaria pinnatifida cultivated on ropes. March 2012 PERSONAL CARE 41
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