SKIN WHITENING
Table 2: In vitro study – melanin assay after 72 hours with and without Melan’oWhite. Time
D0 Kojic acid Control
Melanin* % Control
(µg/mg prot.) Inhibition (in %) *Average realised in triplicate
100 80 60 40 20 0
Control 0.03% 0.05% 0.10% Figure 3: Non-specific adsorption of Melan’oWhite at various concentrations.
spectrophotometry at 490 nm and melanin content is expressed in µg/mL according to a standard curve of synthetic melanin (Sigma) treated in the same way as the epidermises. The inhibition percentage of melanin synthesis is then expressed in comparison to the control placebo (without treatment).
Results Treatment with the lightening fruit active proved during the in vitro study is confirmed in this three-dimensional model with a significant and efficient result against the reference product (Fig. 7). Usually considered as a positive
reference product, kojic acid is less efficient than the lightening fruit active in this study.
In vivo evaluation of lightening efficacy A clinical study has been conducted in collaboration with Spincontrol Asia on a panel of Asian women with an average age of 40.7 years (+/–8.6). Evaluation, carried out on 23 volunteers, has been done on a selection of various skins (dry, normal, oily) with no dermatological problems. Positive results observed during an in
vitro monolayer study and ex vivo study on reconstructed human skin have been completed by this in vivo study. The aim is to prove the lightening effect during 56 days with an intermediate analysis at 28 days.
Location and space measurement areas
have to been strictly defined so as to be as repeatable as possible during the whole kinetic. Sites, the inner area of the forearms, are recorded on a tracing paper for all the panellists. In order to avoid any bias, the application of the products (placebo and formula with 4% the lightening active ingredient) has been determined in a random way for each subject. This randomisation was undertaken by software designed for this purpose. Previously present in the dermatology
industry, colorimetry was also used in cosmetics to measure colour so as to establish skin typologies. Chromametric method, used in this study, enables the analysing of the colour in a way similar to human vision. To quantify the colour intensity, the ICI (International Commission on Illumination) has defined a measurement system of
0.25%
9.38 9.48 88.9 89.8 -
91.3
10.56 100 -
Time +72 hours (after incubation) Melan’oWhite
0.025% 0.05% 0.1% 9.5
9.5
89.6 93.2
89.8 91.6
10.2 96.6 30.9
Creation & manufacturing of fragrance compounds
Singapore Ms. Shannon Tan Tel: 65 67437480 Email:
shannon@nardev.com
China Ms. Jessie Chen Tel: 021-5821-3611 Email:
clwy@sh163e.sta.net.cn
Malaysia Mr. Jenson Khor Tel: 603 8061 0819 Email:
jenson@nardev.com
Indonesia Mr. Wolda Tel: 62 21 6522750 Email:
wolda@nardev.com
India Mdm Mumtaz Sadik Tel: + 91-44-28112761 Email:
sadikazura@hotmail.com
Thailand Nardev Chemie (Bangkok) Co. Ltd Tel. 02-3310766. 02-3319251 Email: adul@
nardev.com
Vietnam Mr. Thang Quoc Tel: 84-8 5260095 Email:
thang@nardev.com
Philippines Omya Chemical Merchants Inc Tel: 2 813 0301 Email:
allan.murillo@
omya.com
South Korea Mr. Tae Min Yoon Tel: 82 31 479 5604 Email:
ytm22@korea.com
United Arab Emirate & GCC Countries Mr. M. Mohamed Sathik Tel: 971 4 2292594 Email:
kazura@eim.ae
Pakistan Khawaja Group of Companies Tel: 042 35857181-4 Email:
sales@fujicap.com
Europe – Benulux, France, Germany & UK Kreglinger Europe NV Tel: 32 3 22 22 044 Email:
ams@kreglinger.com
All Other Territories Mr Avi Borenstein Email:
avi@sillage.org
Figure 4: In vitro representation of a RHTE (SkinEthic).
Nardev Chemie Pte Ltd No. 05-01 Kaki Bukit Ave 1 #05-01 Shun Li Industrial Park, Singapore 417943 Tel: +65 6743 7480 Fax: +65 6743 2346
www.sillage.org
March 2012 PERSONAL CARE 59
Control (%)
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