ANALYSIS
Nica Lewis – Mintel, UK
Competition heats up in whitening body care
Whitening skincare is a key segment of the Asian beauty market. The claim is well established in facial skin care, with one in four new products offering whitening benefits, but it is increasingly appearing in body care too. One in 10 body care launches in Asia now make the whitening claim.
China and Vietnam have been the most
dynamic markets in this segment over the last five years. NPD in whitening body care has held steady in the Philippines but has declined slightly in Thailand and Indonesia, where it peaked in 2009.
New areas Notable innovations in China include segmentation for pregnant women and the evolution of whitening baby care, both of which are now moving into private label. Lemon extract and milk proteins, popular whitening actives a few years ago, have given way to tangerine extract and olive oil this year. Olive oil is better known for its nourishing and antioxidant benefits, but Hong Kong Clean World touts its ability to lighten melanin.
Natural whiteners – multinationals get in on the act Beiersdorf has offered whitening body care in Asia for a number of years under its Nivea and Eucerin brands. Unilever is also
27 24 21 18 15 12 9 6 3 0
2009 Jan-Jun
Stearic acid Ascorbic acid
Figure 1: Trends. 66 PERSONAL CARE March 2012
2009 Jul-Dec
Niacinamide Arbutin
2010 Jan-Jun
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract Scutellaria baicalensis root extract
2010 Jul-Dec
Lactic acid Glutathione
2011 Jan-Jun
Sodium ascorbyl phosphate Arctostaphylos uva-ursi leaf extract
2011 Jul-Dec
active in this segment, with products from Vaseline, Pond’s, Citra and Hazeline. Wipro-owned Unza and the Philippines’ Splash Corporation are the leading local players in whitening body care. This year, Nivea re-launched its
UV Whitening body serum in Thailand, Singapore and Vietnam. The company also introduced a larger pack and new formula for its Extra Whitening Cell Repair & Protect Body Milk. Unilever is also devoting energy to this
segment. It updated the formula of Vaseline Healthy White Triple Lightening Lotion in Vietnam and Taiwan, and launched Dove Body Smooth Rich Nourishing Body Fairness Body Milk in India. Avon, meanwhile, extended its Skin So
Soft body care line-up with a whitening version in India and Vietnam.
Classics and newcomers Vitamin C is the classic whitening and brightening active, while common plant- derived skin brighteners include liquorice, bearberry (Uva ursi) and mulberry. One of the fastest growing new actives
in whitening skin care is sodium ascorbyl phosphate, whose use has almost doubled since 2009. First used in face care, the vitamin C derivative is now moving into whitening body care, although it is not specifically highlighted on packaging.
Product launches
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