nail enhancements - liquid&powder
“It is the preparation of the nails that prevents the acrylic fromlifting andmeans that the enhancementwill last longer”
- Roxanne Valinoti, CND
Frenchmanicures originated in the eighteenth century but really came in to their own throughout the 1920s and 30s in Paris.
Decades later people are still opting for a French polish and it has prevailed as the ultimate in nail chic. Fromday job to dance floor, the Frenchmanicure will accompany almost any outfit and will leave your client feeling elegant.
Orly founder, CEO and President Jeff Pink started using the French on Hollywood Star’s back in 1975 to create a versatile nail style to complement their entire onset wardrobe.
He said: “Once I started having themovie star stylists paint the nails with a white tip and a sheer, the celebrities loved it! I realised themost elegant, universal nail look is a natural nail look.”
To give your client a French that will last as well as strengthening their natural nail then an acrylic enhancement is something that youmay wish to offer in your salon.
Acrylic nails, also known as liquid and powder, are themost popular formof overlay, according to Gigi Rouse, author of the Nailclass.
If your client is after an enhancement that both looks natural and strengthens the nail then acrylic will best suit
them.Also, it is harder wearing than gel, fibreglass and silk wraps so is ideal for clients who use their hands a lot.
Most nail technicians will know how acrylic is formed, however for those of you who don’t then here is the lowdown.
It ismade froma combination of liquid monomer and a polymer powder which forms a chemical
reaction.The result is a pliable product that can be applied over either a nail tip, nail formor the natural nail.
Once the product has been applied it hardens (polymerises or cures) with the warmth of the environment and temperature of the nail.
Temperature is very important, if the powder and liquid is left in a cool place then crystallisationmay occur so ensure that it is kept in a warmenvironment.
all in the prep
RoxanneValinoti, CND Education Ambassador, says themost important part of the treatment is the prep. It is the preparation of the nails that prevents the acrylic from lifting andmeans that the enhancement will last longer. Roxanne explains that there are four simple steps to this procedure. First of all, prepare themanicure so that the cuticle is removed fromthe nails whist ensuring not to clip anything that is living as this could lead to lifting and possibly a bacterial infection.
For liquid and powder enhancements it is important that all shine is removed fromthe nail so that they are smoothed and refined. You should also eliminate surface contaminates before purifying the nail plate layers.
smile
When it comes to choosing the length of the enhancement it is important that it still looks natural and is to your clients taste. Gigi says: “In competition work, technicians produce an ‘extreme’ smile line in order to ‘strut their stuff’ and show the judges the consistent control they have when using their white product to create these lines.”
However, on a client a natural smile line shape will lookmore attractive, unless the client has ultra-long nail beds.
Discuss with your client which nail shape they would like and would best suit them, this usually depends on their nail beds, but
also personal preference. Some clientsmay prefer amore classic style and opt for a round or soft square (rounded square) shape.
Other clientsmay wish to experiment with somethingmore eye-catching and unique such as a stiletto shaped tip or the asymmetrical lipstick nail where the sidewalls of the nails are of unequal length. These can give the classic Frenchmanicure an updated andmodern twist.
rebalance
Ideally if you have done your preparation correctly the rebalance should not be a lengthy process, however, enhancements, whether acrylic or otherwise, are not indestructible andmay encounter breakages or lifting.
Gigi says: “Normally, the rebalance should be about assessing the nails and then maintaining themwith an eye to preventing future problems rather than correcting the present ones.”
The key is to always use a good, sharp and new nail file or abrasive when you start the rebalance. Begin the rebalance by shortening, thinning and re-shaping the tip of the nail, thenmove on to the stress area and ensure you ruthlessly check this area for any cracks, weak or bare spots thatmay have occurred. You should thenmove on to the cuticle area by filing just below the lifting area, ensuring not to unnecessarily loosen anything that doesn’t need to be. This way when you break through to the natural nail the lifted part will just pop off leaving nomore fill lines and perhapsmore importantly, no damage done to the natural nail.
After the new product has been re-applied, your client’s nails will look like a brand new set.
GUILD NEWS 95
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