lisa chapmanwrites knowyour stuff! Lisa Chapman guides you through spray tanning basics
Itmay sound boring, but having a little knowledge of the sunless tanning process and its limitations will help you build amore profitable sunless tanning business.
First things first. I’m sure anyone reading this article will know that the active ingredient in virtually all modern tanning solutions is DHA (Dihydroxyacetone). DHA was first recognised as a skin colouring agent in the 1920s. It is basically a simple starch and is often derived from sugar beat or cane. DHA is not to be confused with the food dye that is used to produce the ‘guide colour’ in tanning solutions.
DHA is the most expensive ingredient within sunless tanning solutions. Cheap DHA will never deliver consistent quality results for your clients. I always recommend using products that are genuinely manufactured using the highest quality ECO-Cert DHA.
how does DHA work?
DHA is not a dye, it reacts with the Keratin in the dead cell skin layer to create pigments calledMelanoidins. The reaction is known as the ‘Maillard reaction’. Melanoidins are similar toMelanin which is the pigment created in skin when it is exposed to sunlight.
An important fact to remember is that the life of a sunless tan is dictated by the speed with which your client sheds dead skin cells. This cycle can be anything from 5 to 10 days. This is why exfoliation prior to having a spray tan is vital, as it means you are starting with all the loose dead skin cells removed and the tan will therefore last longer. This also reduces the likelihood of a tan becoming patchy as it fades due to the fact you are starting with an even surface.
Unfortunately many exfoliators contain moisturisers or oils that act as a perfect barrier and prevent the DHA from reaching the Keratin in the skin. It is important that your client is provided with
an exfoliator that has been specifically designed for use in the sunless tanning process.
Just as important as pre tan preparation is post tan
maintenance.Again you should recommend to your clients that they use a quality moisturiser that has been specifically designed for use with sunless tanning as many moisturisers contain ingredients that accelerate the skin cell shedding process.
Managing your clients’ expectations and allowing them to understand how the sunless tanning treatment works will ensure that they get the best from the service you are offering and recommend you to their friends.
‘‘what you see is what you get’
WhatYou See IsWhatYou Get’, or WYSIWYG, is a term is usually associated with computers, however, it has relevance in the sunless tanning business. When a client has a spray tan the results are immediate and assuming you are using a quality product the client will usually be pleased to see their newly bronzed body.
This immediate result (the guide colour) is created with food dyes that are contained within the tanning solution.
What you are not around to see is when your client showers at home later. ‘Post Shower Disappointment’ can have a bad effect on your tanning business and you are never there to see the client’s reaction.
Colour balance is key. If the guide colour \that the client experiences immediately after their tanning treatment is nothing like the colour post shower, that client will be disappointed (or livid in the worst case) and you have lost the edge. That is, this client will not be singing your praises to everyone they meet.
Used correctly high quality tanning solutions deliver a perfect match pre and post shower. The DHA tan will develop to exactly match the original guide colour.
knowmore than the basics
I have lectured in beauty all over the world and always impress on beauty professionals that it doesn’t matter what treatments or products you are providing to your clients, if you don’t know the basics you will never succeed. You are the professional and your clients choose and trust you as they expect your knowledge to greater than their own.
I am not suggesting you give all your clients a science lecture, but allowing them to understand the treatment you are providing, in such a way as they take it seriously, is vital in order for them to fully benefit. This is so true when it comes to sunless tanning.
So to recap. Pre tan prep with an exfoliator specifically designed for use with sunless
tanning.Always use a tanning solution that has the highest quality Eco-Cert DHA and make sure you provide your clients with a quality moisturiser designed for sunless tanning use.
Now 2012 is upon us and it is going to be a hard year. Despite this the, sunless tanning industry will still grow with new clients wanting to try the service every week.
Sunless tanning remains one of the most profitable services for beauty professionals to provide to their clients. So make sure once you get a new client you keep them and you make them happy. I guarantee they will bring you more business.
Lisa Chapman is MD of Aviva Labs UK, distributors of high
performance sunless products. Fore more information telephone 01642 356930 or visit
www.avivalabs-uk.com
130 GUILD NEWS
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