q&a by dermalogica
Q: My clients often ask if they really need separate products for day and night. I’m of the understanding that skin does change at different times of the day so it would make sense that products should change too, would you agree?
A: “The answer is yes! Invisible to us all, our body undergoes many changes while deep in slumber. Although our minds may no longer be racing, our bodies continuously grow, change and renew during this ‘rest’ period. Our skin, being a dynamic organ, also behaves differently at night than it does during the day.
Think about a typical day. Skin is exposed to stress, both internally from your emotions and lifestyle habits and externally from the environment and the elements. Night-time is the prime time for skin to catch up and repair any damage brought about by these stressors. It is at this time, while you float along into dreamland, that the skin repairs itself. The skin also becomes warmer, loses more water and has a slightly more acidic pH at night. So taking care of your skin at night is just as important as protecting it during the day. But how can we accomplish this?
Much like the skin, certain ingredients also behave differently at night. Some, like Retinol, are degraded with UV radiation, making it excellent for night-time application. Sophisticated ingredient technology has allowed us to utilise the skin’s circadian – that is day to night – cycles to maximise ingredient efficacy. At this time, you want to look for super concentrated doses of nourishing, reparative and conditioning agents. Serums pack a punch of highly concentrated ingredients and are a great way to effect change in a skin that is ready for nightly repair. At night, we are free from the protective films of make-up and sunscreen, so applying serums is a great way to ensure that the active ingredients penetrate effectively to address skin issues.
Essential oils are also a great way to nourish the skin at night. Argan Oil is rich in antioxidants, flavonoids and essential fatty acids, which can all reinforce the barrier lipid layer. In fact, it has been used for centuries as a skin and hair hydrator. Another great lipid enhancer is Sunflower Seed Oil, for its ceramide content. Rosehip Seed Oil has natural retinoids that help reduce the appearance of ageing skin. It is also an excellent source of Vitamin C, which is also more stable when used at night due to photo-degradation. Some oils, like Rosemary and Cinnamon Leaf can even provide antimicrobial properties, making a blend of all these different essential oils both protective and reparative.
Using antioxidants and serums at night will give clients more bang for their buck. Of course, they may also want to try sleeping on their back, drinking water before bedtime and starting their skin care routine after a shower, when skin is still moist and clean. And of course…sleep more!
Sally Penford is EducationManager for the International Dermal Institute, which trains over
75,000 professional Skin Therapists every year. For more information telephone 08000 564 544 or visit
www.dermalinstitute.co.uk
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