skin analysis
In her book Beauty Pure and Simple: The Ayurvedic Approach to Beautiful Skin, author KristenMa explains how Ayurveda uses facial mapping to identify more serious issues. “While facial blemishes and wrinkles may appear unsightly, they can actually help you monitor possible internal problems.
“InAyurveda, each dosha governs different sections of the face, organs and limbs.While this makes for a very complex ideology, it provides a simple guide for
diagnosis.Vata governs the top of the face from the eyes to the hairline, pitta governs the middle section between the eyes and the mouth, and kapha governs the lower face. Skin ailments in each of these areas are often due to an imbalance of the corresponding dosha.
“The forehead, which is the thinnest and driest area of the face, is where vata expresses itself.Worry lines are caused by vata emotions such as anxiety and fear, which also result in insomnia and others stress-related disorders that deepen these lines
further.Many people experience pore congestion isolated to the forehead, which is often linked to constipation, as the colon is also goverend by vata. When treating vatas for dry skin, it is also necessary to detoxify the colon and calm the mind.”
using this knowledge in the salon
Practitioners of Traditional Chinese Medicine and / orAyurveda are able to use these approaches to identify the root causes of clients’ skin care issues. However you do not need to be trained in one of these traditional therapies to be able to offer this in your salon or beauty business.A number of skin care brands have developed their own take on these principles, perhaps the most well-known being Dermalogica’s Face Mapping®
procedure.
“Many women still select their skin care products the way they shop for make-up,” comments Jane. “This is a mistake. They may buy a cleanser or a moisturiser because they like the fragrance, which is generally artificial, or because they like the packaging, which is, of course, pure marketing! FaceMapping®
was created to provide
consumers with brand-neutral facts about the condition of their skin. Ideally, these facts will guide their purchases intelligently, regardless of what brand they choose.”
Used during iiaa events, the Visia Skin Analysis systemartificially ‘ages’ the skin. FaceMapping® is based upon the
division of the face, neck and chest area into 14 zones, each with its own set of unique problems and needs - taking its lead fromTraditional Chinese Medicine. The zones allow you to examine, observe and make notations pertaining to every inch of the face - even behind the ears, where shampoo, cleansers or other product may accumulate, causing irritation. The analysis integrates a visual exam under high magnification, tactile exam to locate hot areas (indicating congestion), milia forming beneath the skin but not yet visible, oily and dry spots and so on. The record allows both your client and yourself to observe and respond effectively to changes in skin condition and to select the appropriate treatments and home use products, creating a customised programme.
Jane adds: “Dermalogica is not based on old-fashioned skin typing, but on allowing the skin therapist to design a personalised system for each client, considering skin’s daily condition and individual concerns.We don’t believe that skin is either dry, oily or normal. Skin conditions are constantly changing due to a variety of factors, namely age, environment, hormones and ethnicity. So it is out of date to label a skin dry for the rest of its life or even the rest of the month!”
Kirsti Shuba of Collin Resultime agrees in the importance of being able to correctly ‘diagnose’ skin issues. “Most people at some time in their lives wrongly diagnose their own skin,” she says. “Many of your clients will have
brought numerous skin care products in the past but have been disappointed with their effects, this is because they have probably been using product that is not suited to their skin type and its needs.Mistakes like these can be expensive.”
Bringing the FaceMapping® concept
right into the 21st century, Dermalogica have recently launched FaceMapping for the iPad, designed specifically to replace the need for a paper-based prescription sheet. It records skin analysis and provides tools like the product directory, notes and zone wheels. However, theApp does not make product recommendations as this is very much your role.
taking on technology
Today analysis of the skin is not always about traditional methods, and an in- depth look - not necessary indicating potential underlying health issues - can be achieved using the latest technologies. Collin Resultime therapists are able to use the Skin Scope during consultations - a computerised skin analysis system which uses a highly advanced camera scope capable of accurately analysing skin whilst measuring its needs. “The advanced software that the Skin Scope provides will allow you, the therapist, to design a bespoke corrective treatment plan and homecare prescription so [your clients] will never make a mistake (when purchasing skin care) again,” explains Kirsti.
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