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INDUSTRY TROUBLESHOOTER
A little touch
of leather
Tony Whitmore discusses the problems that embroidering
leather can bring with Roy Burton, Managing Director of
Your Embroidery Services Ltd.
L
eather has always been an important fabric in Schmetz and Groz Beckert, and in their catalogues and so the pattern will take much longer to sew.
clothing but it does present its own set of this needle is respectively known as SD1 and Tri- In general it is advisable to have patterns for
problems. This month we will look at some of Tip but here may be some occasions where this leather, digitised for leather.
them and try to offer some guidance. could cause a problem. Because of the closeness There are other problems associated with
Leather is made from the tough derma layer of of the stitches there is a possibility that using a embroidering leather, though, other than the
animal skin and reaches its final state after cutting needle may damage the thread already actual stitching. Framing can present what seem to
numerous processes. Unlike knitted or woven sewn into the pattern so in these cases it is be insurmountable problems but don’t let them
material it is formed by natural fibres being recommended that a ball point, or rounded point, beat you. Somewhere someone has probably
bonded together in a random manner. This is needle is used. This type of needle will move the already solved the problem.
strengthened during the processing with the existing thread out of the way and stitch around it At Your Embroidery Services Ltd. for instance much
thickness and hardness of the finished product without damaging it. It really is a “horses for research has gone into how to frame different
varying depending on its use. Whatever the grade courses” decision but in general we would always materials and products from cotton to suede and
though all leather has one thing in common when recommend the cutting style needle
it comes to stitching, it can be easily damaged. The It is also important that the pattern is digitised
act of driving a needle through a piece of leather with leather in mind because this too has a serious
is similar to pushing a ballpoint pen through a effect on the final outcome. We have already
piece of paper. The needle needs to cleanly established the similarity between leather and
penetrate the leather and, as it is made of random paper so let’s apply another comparison. If we
fibres, it is wise to use a needle that will actually make a series of close holes in a piece of paper we
cut the leather on contact. This is quite common in achieve something called perforation. This can also
normal manufacturing with different angled points happen when sewing leather although, of course,
being used to achieve different stitch patterns. For being much stronger it is not quite so critical.
instance the angled seam on a shoe is When the 'YES Ltd.' design studio knows that a jumpers to football boots. The latter for instance
accomplished by using an angled point to make design will be embroidered on leather they adopt can be handled using a clamp frame which will
the thread lay in a certain direction but this, of a different set of rules relating to stitch density, easily hold the boot without damaging it.
course, would be no good for embroidery as it under stitching etc. If a design that was originally Generally the standard push-in frame is not
would have an adverse effect on the pattern so, to digitised for knitwear is used on leather the suitable for leather because there is not enough
overcome this, it is recommended to use a needle resultant excessive stitching may cause damage. flexibility in the fabric to allow the two parts of the
that has a conical point but with minute cutting Even if this does not happen you should still frame to be pushed together and, in any case, on
edges on the tip. At Your Embroidery Services Ltd. consider that the majority of the packing stitches fine soft leathers this type of frame may well mark
supply needles from the two top manufacturers, needed for knitwear are not necessary for leather or bruise the surface.
Other ways of “framing” leather include the “flop
on” method where the panel is simply laid onto a
piece of framed fabric (normally non-woven) and
held in position with some sort of adhesive such
as double-sided tape but if you use this method
try to make sure that you are not sewing through
the glue.
Leather is a common embroidery medium and has
been for centuries so don’t let it worry you. If it is
the first time you have ventured into this arena
then use the expertise that is available at
companies such as Your Embroidery Services Ltd.
You know what they say, “where there is a will,
there is a way”
For information about the products and/or
techniques mentioned contact Your Embroidery
Services Ltd. on 01623 863343 or e-mail them at
sales@yesltd.co.uk or visit www.yesltd.co.uk
| 18 | July 2009 www.printwearandpromotion.co.uk
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