INSPIRATION
09
Take in the wire with 1 cm at the joint. This way the wire gets some tension, which will give the crown a nicer shape.
10
Cut a bias strip of basket weave sinamay that measures double the depth of the block and the base (see 05).
11
Fold the strip in half lengthways along the bias. Line up all the basket weave and pin every other line together.
12
Mark the whole length of the midfront line with a basting thread, on both layers separately.
13
Mark also the folding seam with a basting stitch. All basting lines will stay in until the finish.
14
Dampen the sinamay with a lightly dampened cloth. Stretch the sinamay a little at the fold and place the foldline slightly over the edge of the block.
15
Line up the centre basting thread on the sinamay against the centre line of the block. Block the outside lines first.
16
Next, pin the inside of the shape. Make sure that the weave lines of the sinamay line up nicely. Pin the sinamay to the block with about 40 pins on the outside of the crown and about 30 on the headfitting edge.
17
Sew in the tucking lines so you know where the end lines are, before removing the sinamay from the block.
72 | the hat magazine #81
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