Dutch Ton Joling
National Opera
interview by Elly Stemerdink
We recently met up with Ton Joling, who heads the Hat & Costume props workroom at Dutch National Opera & Ballet in Amsterdam. Here they make all masks and harnesses, jewellery and headwear for the opera productions. This is his 25th year with the theatre.
“I studied at art college, specialising in theatre design, and landed here coincidentally when someone was taking parental leave,” says Ton. “After 25 years I’m still here. Our department has three full-time jobs, one of which is shared by two people. Not every opera that’s performed in this theatre needs hats or headpieces, which is why we also produce the body (costume) props. Everything that is not a suit costume but worn on an artist’s body is made by us, such as wings or attaching insect legs or rumps. If costumes need to be embroidered, we also do that. Occasionally we outsource an item that is beyond our expertise, or if doing it ourselves costs too much time.”
52 | the hat magazine #81
Each production starts with a general kick-off, after which the costume designer discusses designs with the heads of each workshop within the costume department separately. The purchasing department is also present during these meetings. Ton says: “In previous years we managed to take over some complete inventories of hat makers who ended their business. Over time we have built quite an interesting collection of blocks and materials. Whatever we need for a production that we haven’t got in stock is sourced for us by the purchasing department. They take care of everything,
& Ballet
from staples to felts.” During the meetings with the costume designer, which usually takes place about half a year before the production date, Ton tries to tackle the upcoming challenges. For example, how can they realise a costume prop design, are the costume props too extreme? “The biggest challenges are large pieces on the head because singers cannot sing well if the weight
especially tricky as
they need balancing on the head, causing more pressure on
of the headwear is an issue. Vertical pieces are
The dog mask from the opera L’etoile
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