Canada NEW IN YUKON
With Yukon seeing a 5.6% increase in international arrivals last year and a 38% increase since 2010, the growth in this Canadian province shows no sign of slowing down:
Accommodation The vast icy wilderness of Kluane national park
Calgary, including British Airways, WestJet (NA400), Air Canada (NA400) and Air Transat (NA402). Destination Canada (NA400), the country’s tourism commission, predicts a 3% year-on-year growth in UK travellers visiting Canada this year, bringing the number to 825,000. Most will be lured to the lower-lying provinces of British Columbia, Ontario and Alberta, but there’s now a growing argument for visitors to take the two-hour connecting flight north-west to territorial capital Whitehorse.
Hit the ground running Seen from the air, the Yukon appears vast and untouched, but it’s surprisingly easy to get around. If conventional self-drive holidays seem tame, the Yukon delivers the answer. Jump in a 4x4 to deal with iced-over roads, and 30 minutes after landing your quest for freedom and fresh air begins.
It takes around five minutes to drive into the wilderness proper – saloon bars, all-mod-con hotels and craft breweries on one side, rustic log cabins and spruce-wrapped lake resorts on the other.
There’s a gigantic paddle steamer parked on the Yukon river in Whitehorse, plus the historic White Pass and Yukon Railway station, but the real adventure starts out on the scenic Alaska Highway.
From there, the road winds north through a territory bigger than Germany or Japan, with peekaboo glimpses of gigantic mountains and sparkling glacial valleys streaming in via the rear-view mirror.
Ready for take-off
By the time I reach Haines Junction, jumping-off point for Kluane national park, I’m ready to swap the driving seat for a spot in a Cessna 206 six-seater plane.
What’s brought me here is a “flight-seeing” micro-adventure with Rocking Star Adventures pilot Daniel Clunies-Ross, and our plan is a two-hour, 300-mile circuit puttering over the world’s largest non-polar ice field.
“That’s the emergency landing transmitter,” says Clunies-Ross, pointing to a flashing red button on the dashboard as the plane soars west from runway into wild blue sky. “Kluane is Canada’s largest national park, almost completely uninhabited, so it’s not a good place to get lost. But that’s why it’s so much fun to explore.”
From the cockpit, the visual thrills are Imax-worthy. Like most of the Yukon, it’s a natural wonder, an impressive labyrinth of Leviathan- sized glaciers, gargantuan ice fields and snow-packed summits. The final reveal comes with a quick loop around Mount Logan – at 5,959m, it’s the highest peak in Canada. Those without a head for heights need not be intimidated. As Clunies- Ross says: “Once you get out here, it’s hard to say goodbye.”
Thrills and cultural frills As much as any adventurer wants to explore the stunning beauty of Canada’s frozen north, it’s also worth experiencing the living First Nations culture that surrounds it.
Near the town of Carcross, by lakes
Tagish, Marsh and Bennett, that journey begins with snowshoeing, dog-sledding and ice-fishing – undemanding yet inspiring activities perfected by the Yukon’s indigenous tribes for many centuries. I spend the next few days trying them out at the Southern Lakes Resort and Inn On The Lake, two road-accessible, off-grid properties. One mixes lavish salmon bake dinners with comfy woodsy cabins. The other wows with understated luxury, hot-tub stargazing and a cameo from the aurora borealis. The next morning, I join wilderness guide Patrick Beille for an ice-fishing masterclass. The hope is to catch lunch – a silvery lake char, perhaps – but after baiting, jigging, spinning and luring through a hole of sloshing lake ice, we’re left empty-handed. “The fish’s metabolism slows in winter because of the cold, so they should be easy to catch,” says Beille, shaking his head. “Obviously not today. Just as well I brought a back-up.”
Moments later, a crackling fire is stoked on the snowy lake and the outdoorsman begins barbecuing a Yukon specialty: caribou sausage served straight from the spit. It is a moment to savour, literally. It could be argued that the Yukon is the last refuge of the free spirit: some of the greatest scenery anywhere on earth, majestic lakes and mountains all to myself, dancing lights in the night sky and a thrilling snowmobile ride home. Surely that’s worth a trip north?
■ Find Tourism Yukon at NA400 05.11.2018 63
A new-build boutique hotel, Raven Inn Whitehorse, is scheduled to open in Whitehorse in 2019. With 57 rooms, its design has been inspired by historic Klondike Gold Rush architecture. Tincup Wilderness Lodge has been fully renovated. The fl y-fi shing lodge on the outskirts of Kluane national park offers wooden cabins on the shores of Tincup Lake, a location perfect for hiking, canoeing and kayaking. Other renovated accommodation includes Hotel Carmacks between Whitehorse and Dawson and Edgewater Hotel, a high-end choice on the Yukon River. Plus, Northern Lights Resort & Spa is almost doubling its capacity with three glass-walled chalets designed to enhance guests’ aurora borealis experience.
Trends
Yukon is best known for its extreme outdoor adventure and northern lights experiences but recently it’s seen a boom in culinary tourism – the province’s fi fth annual culinary festival took place in August this year. Meanwhile, the First Nations continues to be a draw for international visitors.
Future plans
This year, the Yukon government has taken on a 10-year tourism development strategy that is currently undergoing stakeholder engagement to gather input from citizens, tourism businesses, the First Nations and multiple levels of government to create a long-term, sustainable plan to grow tourism.
© Yukon Government
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