the ultimate safari C R E ATE
For many, a safari represents the optimal escape and lifelong travel dream. If you’re going to invest in turning this dream into reality, there are some things worth considering. Words: Emma Gregg
From the first waſt of dewy morning air to the gentle owl hoots that driſt into camp aſter dark, there’s a satisfying natural rhythm to a day on safari in Africa. Even if you’re not normally an early riser, you’ll quickly fall into the routine of pre-dawn starts, lazy lunchtimes, active aſternoons and mellow evenings, making the most of the best hours both for wildlife-watching and for chilling out. Deep at night, if you’re lucky, you may hear the distant whoop of a hyena, the rasping call of a leopard or the bassy roar of a lion. But more oſten than not, you’ll sleep soundly, drunk on fresh air. Soon aſter you wake, you’ll head out into the
wild, eager to discover what the day will deliver. Perhaps you’ll find yourself inching up on some rhinos, watching boisterous elephants bathe in a waterhole or spotting the youngest, cutest members of a mighty big cat dynasty. If this sounds like the kind of escape you’ve
been craving, but you’re puzzling over possible itineraries, what’s the best way to choose?
G R E E N ME AN S GO While every luxury safari offers unforgettable wildlife encounters, there are plenty of options to consider. High-end African trips and settings vary hugely in their atmosphere and style. Some itineraries, for example, are much
greener than others. If you’re passionate about nature, you’ll want to make ethical choices, mindful of climate change and biodiversity, perhaps by minimising your time in the air. While every long-haul trip has a high carbon footprint, you can limit your safari’s impact by choosing a destination near an international airport and sharing a vehicle rather than continuing by taking domestic flights. With superb wildlife-watching opportunities
within driving distance, Nairobi makes an excellent starting point for a low-airmiles luxury safari. “You could head for the stunning
mountains and waterfalls of the Aberdare range, where lions hunt giant forest hogs”, says Kenya specialist Richard Trillo of Expert Africa. “The tree-dotted plains of the Maasai Mara, which host East Africa’s annual Great Migration, are also within reach,” Richard adds. There are other ways to dial down the net
impact of your trip without compromising on quality, however. While carbon offset schemes can help compensate for your emissions, for a more targeted approach, you could book your trip through a specialist safari operator that has established working partnerships with African conservation charities. “We’re proud to support South Africa’s all-
female Black Mamba Anti-Poaching Unit, and Greenpop, a non-profit Sub-Saharan forest restoration and urban greening organisation,” says Marcelo Novais of luxury operator Ker and Downey Africa. “We give all our clients the opportunity to
donate to these worthy causes, since leaving a positive legacy is one of our core values,” he adds. Other deserving organisations include African Parks, the African Wildlife Foundation, Tusk and the World Land Trust. Another effective way of maximising the
benefits of your trip is to choose lodges that go the extra mile in their vicinity, doing more for environmental protection, community partnerships and rural development than merely covering park fees and basic wages. In Tanzania, the Elewana Arusha Coffee Lodge invites guests to visit the craſt project they support, Shanga, where locals with disabilities upcycle glass, textiles and fishing wire into cute elephant cushions, jewellery and clothing. When it comes to shortlisting properties,
membership of Ecotourism Kenya, Responsible Tourism Tanzania, Fair Trade Tourism and the Global Sustainable Tourism Council are generally useful indicators.
S E T T L IN G IN Once you’ve arrived in the bush, what will your surroundings feel like? Anyone who’s cautious about camping in the wilderness will be relieved to discover that most top-end operators put their guests at ease by focusing on creature comforts: cool drinks, gourmet dining, indulgently appointed private bathrooms and sumptuous beds, for example. As a rule, their staff — from the head guide to the housekeepers — are superb at their jobs. That said, there are significant differences
between, on the one hand, intimate, minimalist camps with just a handful of canvas tents and, at the other extreme, sizeable lodges featuring swimming pools, gyms and perhaps even a spa, photography hide, editing suite, research centre, library and observatory. It’s a matter of weighing up how close to nature you’d like to feel — hearing all those thrilling sounds in the night, for example — against the range of facilities and creature comforts you’d like to enjoy. When deciding, honest opinions from people
who know the properties well can be invaluable. “Our safari specialists always have detailed conversations with our clients to understand their preferences and offer advice”, says Liberty Gilmour of Audley Travel. “Conventional aircon, for example, is rarely essential: Zambia in May and high-altitude destinations such as Ngorongoro can be quite cool, particularly at night. If it’s hot, natural ventilation may be sufficient, but many camps also have solar-powered cooling systems.” Whether opulent, nostalgic or quirky,
surroundings that suit your aesthetic aspirations can elevate your experience. The family heirlooms that decorate Camp Jabulani in South Africa’s Kapama Reserve, for example, create a uniquely cosy atmosphere, while Xigera Safari Lodge in Botswana’s Okavango Delta is so proud of its collection of original pieces by contemporary African artists and artisans that staff offer art
National Geographic Traveller – Luxury Collection 17
IMAGE: ASH JARVIS
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