IMAGES: DE FIETSAMBASSADE GENT; CÉDRIC SCHELL; AWL IMAGES
CYCLING
Beyond Ghent’s cobbles
Head for the water on a 23-mile circuit that meanders past canals, docklands, 12th-century castles and even beaches, revealing a different side to this stylish Belgian city
Ghent is an easy city to fall in love with. As beautiful as nearby Bruges, but with fewer tourists, the Belgian city is packed to the raſters with medieval buildings, many fronting handsome cobbled squares or pretty canals. It’s also a place where locals know how to live well, with Ghentians enjoying a thriving cultural life and a cafe, bar and restaurant scene to rival that of much larger cities. Many streets in Ghent’s medieval heart are
closed to traffic — including cyclists — for much of the day, so it’s a good idea to get your bearings on foot before finding a set of wheels for wider exploration. Aſter picking up a rental bike, a fine way to get a thorough introduction to the Belgian city is to tackle the Ghent Cycling Route, a 23-mile circuit that leads to spots that even some locals may be unfamiliar with. The flat terrain means the miles fly by, but there are shortcuts for those wishing to spend less time in the saddle. Looping in and out of the centre and hitting every
point on the compass, there isn’t much that the route doesn’t cover. There are stops at 12th-century castles and industrial docklands; at cafes serving flat whites and nature reserves popular with birdwatchers; and
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at monasteries-turned-museums, as well as burger bars. Heading in a clockwise direction, it’s not long before you get your first taste of waterside cycling, sweeping along the quay that runs beside the River Lys. The path then edges the Blaarmeersen, a lovely lake with a beach where you can hop off for a dip. A little further on is the De Bijloke complex, a former hospital that’s now a concert venue — just one of many imaginatively converted buildings passed en route. Aſter hitting the northern stretches of the city,
the route swings back into the centre via the delightful medieval neighbourhood of Patershol, characterised by cobbled streets lined with gabled houses, many of which are pubs and cafes. Houtdok, to the east, couldn’t be more different — the old harbour is industrial in feel, with former warehouses given over to microbreweries and street food markets. The route then heads south before returning to the centre. Aſter a coffee at the final recommended stop, stunning public library De Krook, there’s only one way to complete the day — with a Belgian beer.
visit.gent.be/en/see-do/gentse-fietsen-route
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Cafe culture along Ghent’s 23-mile cycling route; half-timbered houses back the waterways in Strasbourg’s Petite France neighbourhood; cyclists taking a break on Kraków Mound, overlooking Kraków Old Town
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