68 FORMULATING FOR MILDNESS


Creating mild cleansers with natural emollients


n Tiffany Quinn MS, Robert A Harper PhD – Floratech, US Floraesters K-20W®


Jojoba [INCI: Hydrolyzed


Jojoba Esters (and) Water (Aqua)] and Florasun®


90 [INCI: Helianthus Annuus


(Sunflower) Seed Oil] are plant derived emollients (from Simmondsia chinensis and Helianthus annuus, respectively) that are commonly used in cosmetic and personal care products for their functionality and oxidative stability. Floraesters K-20W Jojoba (now referred to


as K-20W) is an oleogel comprised of hydrolyzed jojoba oil (20%) and water (80%). Multiple studies have shown that K-20W imparts a variety of benefits to the skin such as hydration, and barrier protection and repair.1,2 Due to its derivatization from a wax ester, the use of K-20W also allows for “oil-free” claims. K-20W is very well suited for rinse-off finished products due to its ability to provide water, wear, and transfer resistance to finished formulas. It functions by trapping small molecules like glycerin and glycolic acid at the skin’s surface,3


allowing these molecules to


work longer. It works especially well when formulating mild products, such as those geared towards mothers and babies, or those that require the use of skin irritating ingredients like surfactants, soap, glycolic acid, and alcohol. Even in the presence of these ingredients K-20W is able to trap humectants to the skin surface to potentiate hydration and provide a protective layer on the skin surface to mitigate barrier disfunction caused by these necessary but harsh ingredients. The present research will discuss how K-20W functions in bar soaps and face washes without negatively affecting the foaming capabilities. Incorporating triglyceride oils into


surfactant systems is another way to generate a milder wash product. Florasun 90 (now referred to as high oleic sunflower oil) is a natural triglyceride oil with high oxidative stability due to its high oleic content (>85%) and low levels of polyunsaturates. Not only is it useful in producing milder wash products, but it also has a non-greasy skin-feel and can extend the shelf life of a finished product. All studies presented in this article were


double-blind, vehicle-controlled, randomized, and carried out under controlled temperature and humidity conditions.


PERSONAL CARE NORTH AMERICA


Formulating milder bar soaps and face washes K-20W protects skin health K-20W was evaluated for skin hydration (Corneometer CM 8254 (Tewameter®


TM 3004 ), and skin smoothness (Visioscan VC 984


to consumer perception evaluations, at 0.50% in a bar soap and 0.75% in a face


n A-vehicle bar soap + 0.5% K-20W n B-vehicle bar soap


6% 4% 2% 0%


-2% -4% -6% -8%


-10% -12%


30 minutes Figure 1: Improved skin hydration – bar soap. A B


wash compared to the respective vehicle formulas (see Table 1). For the bar soap, baseline hydration and


), barrier function ), in addition


barrier function (i.e. TEWL) measurements on male and female subjects’ forearms (n=19) were captured, followed by repeated washing with each bar soap 10 times (i.e. wet, 10 strokes, 60 second wash by hand, rinse, and pat dry). Measurements were repeated 30 minutes post-wash. The results appear in Figures 1 and 3. To evaluate skin smoothness and consumer perception, female subjects’ hands (n=25) were washed with each bar soap one time (i.e. wash soiled6


hands with soap for 30


seconds, rinse for 10 seconds, and pat dry). Skin smoothness was measured at baseline and 30 minutes post-wash, and consumers evaluated their hands during the wash, 0 (i.e. immediately after washing), and 30 minutes after washing with the bar soap. For the face wash, baseline hydration


and skin smoothness measurements on female subjects’ faces (n=26) were captured, followed by washing the left or right side of the face with the respective face wash one time (i.e. wet, 30 second wash by hand, rinse, and pat dry).


October 2020 Ingredient Soap Noodles5 Corn Starch Talc Glycerin Fragrance


Sodium Chloride Titanium Dioxide Tetrasodium EDTA


Butylated Hydroxytoluene (BHT)


Table 1: Vehicle formulation. Bar Soap


%wt./wt. Ingredient q.s. Water 8.00


8.00 2.00 1.50 0.80 0.65 0.10 0.05


Water (and) Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate (and) Sodium Lauroamphoacetate (and) Cocamide MIPA


Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Sodium Chloride Glycerin


Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate Xanthan Gum


Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride Hydroxyacetophenone Citric Acid (and) Water Preservative Fragrance


Fash Wash


%wt./wt. q.s.


40.00


10.00 3.00 2.25 0.50 0.40 0.35 0.20 q.s. q.s. q.s.


Percent Change in Skin


Hydration From Baseline hydration


dryness


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