62 PRESERVATIVES
Formulating for mildness by using the right preservation
n Dr Carsten Dietz – Cosphatec, Germany
The modern way of preserving a product means making a product unattractive for germs but highly attractive for consumers without any irritation. For modern cosmetics a mild preservation plays a key role and is more important than ever. The environmental conditions become more and more challenging for our skin and the preservation strategy is in the spotlight because most listed preservatives have negative side effects, as well as restrictions are increasing and allowed dosages decreasing. The average consumer does not pay much attention to the preservation strategy. Nevertheless, consumers would like to have a mild cosmetic product with a high stability and long shelf life. The formulator’s point of view is different because preservation is often more challenging than expected. Bacteria, yeasts and molds are an
indispensable element of life and evolution. On one hand, bacteria on our skin and in our digestive system are of high functional need, on the other hand we intend to protect our food and cosmetics against undesirable contamination. Killing bacteria, yeasts and molds is less of a challenge than finding the right balance for each individual formulation and maintaining the mildness. So what would the absolutely perfect
preservative look like? It should be natural, acting pH-independently and working in all formulations. It also should be transparently soluble in water, mild, stable, odorless and colorless and even be inexpensive. The bad news: such a preservative does not exist. We always need to find the perfect
solution for your individual requirements, thereby obstacles can be detected early to avoid risks and pitfalls. Such a guiding principle, however, confronts cosmetic manufacturers with typical questions for each new development or for the replacement of listed preservatives. Cosphatec GmbH (US distributors: TAOS Inc. and Catalyst Technologies Inc.) has more than 15 years of experience in product protection with a strong focus on preservation and alternative microbiological solutions. In this article I will
PERSONAL CARE NORTH AMERICA
give you an overview of frequently asked questions, general challenges and a guide for increasing the mildness of your formulations.
What is the difference between listed preservatives and non-listed preservatives? What are the advantages and disadvantages? In order to answer these questions, we need to dive into the history of preservation from the start and also concentrate on the fast development in the last 15 years and the newest trends. The first indications of preservation go back to 5000 B.C. when grapes were dried or used to prepare wine and vinegar. Romans mastered many preservation techniques that are still used today. Vegetables were covered by oil, fruits preserved by honey, other food was salted or boiled in salted water. In the late Roman Byzantine Empire, medicines led to the discovery of distillation; the beginning of the perfume development and the usage of alcohol for preservation. The development of synthetic
preservatives in the 19th and 20th century led to the breakthrough of broadband preservation. In 1855, formaldehyde was discovered and ten years later a technical
production was realised. In the course of the next 100 years, formaldehyde-donors such as DMDM-Hydantoin and Bronopol were used. The invention of parabens in 1930 had a significant influence on the market and simplified preservation a lot. These esters of p-hydroxybenzoic acid showed a great efficiency, an acceptable water-solubility, covered a broad pH range of 3.0 - 7.0 and were inexpensive. However, every product has its zenith and the situation
changed. Since 1953, more and more
toxicological research centres have been established which little by little put a damper on several synthetic
preservatives. Even a couple of dangerous
side effects starting from allergic reactions, hormone influencing effects right up to a carcinogenic potential could be identified. Knowing all of this led to several substances coming under suspicion. Today, some substances are completely banned and the use of most of the early synthetic preservatives has been restricted. Nevertheless, parabens are still used in mass market products but more and more formulators are screening the market for alternatives already. For a long time phenoxyethanol was a very common preservative but nowadays it is also in the line of fire. This is often the beginning of a death struggle for a raw material and can be seen as negative marketing. The experiences and opinions of consumers have a huge influence on the dynamic of the market and are finally decisive. This means that mildness is more than a non-irritating ingredient, it also includes that there are no hidden negative side effects or a negative link in the consumers’ minds. Unfortunately, many common traditional
preservatives have negative side effects. Before getting to the traditional preservatives we need to define the word preservative first. In general, there are two existing definitions. From a microbiological point of view all substances with an antimicrobial effect are defined as preservatives. This includes oil, honey, sugar, organic acids, alcohols, oils,
October 2020
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