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SUN CARE 55


Table 1: Formulation Material


Water Carbomer


Disodium EDTA Triethanolamine Octocrylene Octisalate


Oxybenzone Avobenzone Stearic Acid


Sorbitan isostearate


Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate Dimethylpolysiloxane VP/Eicosene Copolymer Methylparaben


Stearyl/Octyldodecyl Citrate Crosspolymer


Acrylates / Octylacrylamidecopolymer. A


83.10 0.25 0.05 1.00 3.00 3.00 2.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 0.50 2.00 0.10


0.00 B


83.10 0.25 0.05 1.00 3.00 3.00 2.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 0.50 0.00 0.10


2.00


environmentally responsible; it is increasingly requested by the public and required by governments worldwide.6 In this exercise, the film-former was found


to be lacking in biodegradation properties and in aesthetics (waxy feel). The first approach was to substitute a polyester film-former (same function in formulation) into a current formulation to study effectiveness of the formulation and changes to biodegradation and aesthetics. The same concentration was used that is the film-former was a part for part drop into the existing formulation. Traditionally, high molecular weight, free


radically based, polymers have been employed to impart water-resistance in sun care products:


“Traditional film forming polymer is a hydrophobic, high molecular weight, carboxylatedacrylic copolymer.” VA / Butyl Maleate/IsobrnylAcrylate


Copolymer “...polymer is positioned for hair spray applications where it delivers stiff, hard-holding performance.” Journal of Cosmetic Science: There is an


article entitled “Investigating Film Properties of Polymers Used in Anhydrous Sunscreen Formulations Using Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM).1.Thompson, W.; Kennedy, D.; Gillence, T.; McMullen, R.L.; Senak, L J. Cosmet. Sci., 69, 2018, 203.


Plastic free film-formers The formulation evaluated is shown in Table 1. SPF and Water Resistance results for the two formulations are shown in Table 2.


Biodegradation It has been shown that stearyl/octyldodecyl citrate copolymer degrades by 40% in 28 days, while the backbone of poly (acrylate) degrades 0.12 – 0.24% in six months.7 Material must be run without additional solvent and using approved methods.


Conclusions There are many times when a formulator wishes to alter the performance of a personal care formulation by addition of a small concentration of a particular new surface active polymer. This approach referred to as ‘minimally disruptive Formulation’ (MDF) is often the most efficient approach.


Table 2: SPF and Water Resistance in vivo SPF


A B


Water Resistance


28.85 83.10


5 subject 80 mins water immersion


There are other times in which


replacement of a raw material is the preferred approach. In this instance the raw material being replaced should be replaced with a new raw material which has a functional similar property, rather than just share a chemical type. In the example cited in this work, an


acrylate-based film-former is replaced with a polyester polymer. The function is the formula is the same (film-former) but the chemistry is very different. The film functionality was maintained as


was the SPF, but the aesthetics and biodegradability were improved. In addition, the new film-former is not a plastic.


References 1 https://tinyurl.com/yyqhern4 2 https://tinyurl.com/y2p6tcjj 3 https://tinyurl.com/y6nxpkpd 4 https://tinyurl.com/y4cbm9g6 5 https://www.scconline.org/scc-webinars- innovating-with-minimally-disruptive- formulations-mdf/


6 www.productstewardship.us/default.aspx 7 Mellou F, Varvaresouand A, Papageorgiou S. Renewable sources: applications in personal care formulations, Inter J Cos. Sci. 2019, https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12564


PC


October 2020


PERSONAL CARE NORTH AMERICA


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