SKIN CARE 49
Care for your hands with purified sugar beet extract
n Piera Pericu - DuPont Nutrition & Biosciences, Germany Carole Gherardi - DuPont Nutrition & Biosciences, Switzerland
The World Health Organization1 recommends
hand sanitizing using soap and water, or various water or alcohol-based sanitizers as the cheapest, easiest and most important way to prevent the spread of the COVID-19 (Coronavirus Disease-2019) virus. This has led to greatly increased levels of hand sanitization in the general population. Although crucial in stopping the spread of
pathogens, frequent hand cleaning may cause problematic changes in the skin ranging from skin dryness (xerosis) to skin inflammation caused by the penetration of irritants (irritant contact dermatitis). Diligent hand cleaning can cause severe dry skin, characterized by deep painful cracking and even bleeding. These problems can be generated through
various mechanisms. First, prolonged exposure to water and humidity creates extensive swelling of the stratum corneum of the skin and disrupts intercellular lipids leading to higher skin permeability and lower skin barrier function. This in turn increases sensitivity to physical and chemical agents. Repeated use of detergents, solvents, and soaps may also cause skin damage by removing skin surface lipids, damaging skin proteins such as keratin, and altering the keratinocyte membrane.2 Four complementary strategies (Occlusion,
Humectancy, Strengthening the skin barrier, and Osmoprotection) can be applied to ensure the skin maintains optimum moisture levels
Where?
SHORT TERM What?
OCCLUSION
● Create a film at the surface ● Stop/Limit TEWL and dehydration
Abstract
Increased hand washing and sanitization measures due to the COVID-19 epidemic mean a greater need for hand care as the skin on hands is damaged by constant cleansing. Adding active osmolytes such as GENENCARE®
OSMS BA (glycine betaine) to hand
cleansers can help to fight the skin dryness caused by repeated use of sanitizers and soaps. Under normal circumstances, natural osmoprotectants allow the skin to adjust to
external stress factors, however with repeated cleansing skin can become dehydrated. GENENCARE OSMS BA is an osmoprotectant which helps to control the water balance in living cells. When added to skin care products it improves skin moisturization through osmoprotection, humectancy and improving the skin barrier function by strengthening the tight junctions. This article discusses the benefits of adding GENENCARE OSMS BA to hand care
formulations. Three studies were performed. First, glycine betaine was shown to mitigate the irritation potential of surfactants and protect the skin from irritation. Second, it was demonstrated that glycine betaine decreases skin visual dryness and prevents skin dehydration after repeated use of hand sanitizer, as well as improves the sensory profiles of formulations. The third study found a significant and lasting moisturizing effect when a 3% glycine betaine emulsion was applied during a four-week period. Adding glycine betaine to hand care products helps to mitigate the harmful effects of
frequent hand cleansing. It has protective, moisturizing effects as well as a luxurious silky feel. It can be easily formulated into traditional cleansers and moisturizing emulsions.
and functions effectively as a protective barrier against both water loss and pathogens (Fig 1). Occlusion refers to applying substances like
mineral oils and silicones on surface of the skin which forms an occlusive film to stop or limit the trans epidermal water loss and protect the deeper skin layers from dehydration.
Where?
LONG TERM What?
STRENGTHEN SKIN BARRIER
● Quality and cohesion of Stratum Corneum ● Strengthening Tight Junctions in Stratum Granulosum➝Limit TEWL
Humectancy refers to applying hygroscopic
substances or NMF-like substances, to mimic the Natural Moisturizing Factor present in the stratum corneum enabling water retention in the cells and keeping the skin surface smooth and pliable. The skin barrier is provided by patterned
lipids localized in the extracellular spaces between corneocytes for optimal cohesion of the cells, and by tight junctions between keratinocytes in the superficial living epidermis. Bringing extra lipids like triglycerides and
ceramides; and/or actives specifically strengthening the Tight Junctions will reinforce the skin barrier function. Osmoprotection is provided by
HUMECTANCY
Attach and retain water in the Stratum Corneum
OSMOPROTECTION
● Improve water flow ● Restore cell water balance
Figure 1: Four complementary skin moisturization and protection strategies. (DuPont Nutrition Biosciences)
October 2020
osmolytes which protect cells by helping with water retention and maintaining cell volume. In dry skin, keratinocyte cells are under hyperosmotic stress which can cause water efflux and cell shrinkage. Keratinocytes respond by increasing the production of osmolyte transporters on their cell membranes, resulting in increased uptake
PERSONAL CARE NORTH AMERICA
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