24 MEN’S GROOMING
the male skin care consumer. This gap is probably not as large as it was a few years ago, but it might still be larger than it should be. Market research organizations like Mintel report that skin care brands for men need to more clearly communicate to their consumer that they are especially designed for men. On the surface, the male skin care consumers needs packaging and scent fitting to his expectations and needs. Formulation-wise the product needs to fit male skin and provide benefits male skin needs. The specific features and the efficacy of the skin care product also need to be clearly and simply communicated to the male consumer.
Male skin Over the years of doing research on male skin vs. female skin, a large number of differences have been discovered and reported on. Men’s skin is approx. 20% thicker than skin of women. The thickness of the dermis being largely accountable for this feature. In Caucasians, men tan more quickly than women and their tan wears off more slowly. Men are prone to greater UV- induced immunosuppression, possibly accounting for the higher incidence of skin cancer in men. With age men also show deeper wrinkles, indicating that, with time, men’s skin ages more pronouncedly. This might at least partly be related to UV- induced immunosuppression as reduction of immunosuppression was shown to decelerate skin aging. Expanding on the immunological level, men show higher cortisol levels than women. This indicates that men are subjected to higher stress levels, which can negatively affect their skin. The amount of sebum and sweat
represent the most striking differences between male and female skin, though. Men produce more than 3 times more sebum than women. Sebum plays many different roles for skin, positive and negative. It influences the viscoelastic properties of the stratum corneum, the outer layer of skin. Sebum helps waterproofing skin and influences the pH of skin. In comparison, men are also reported to produce up to double the amount of sweat. Sweat, containing components like urea and lactate, plays an important role for skin hydration. Sebum and sweat have an influence on skin pH where men have been reported to show lower skin pH than women. Sebum has especially been implied in
negative features related to skin. Men are affected more by these features than women. Men show larger and more visible facial pores than women. Acne is the most well-known problem related to elevated sebum production, though. More than 80% of people suffer from some form of acne when they are 12 to 25 years of age. The overall prevalence of acne is more than 9%, making it the eighth most prevalent disease
PERSONAL CARE NORTH AMERICA Figure 3: Initiation of a vicious circle leading to acne lesions.
Figure 4: The development of acne lesions.
worldwide. Young men are reported to both show a higher prevalence and higher severity of acne than women. In conclusion, the male skin care
consumer is young and suffers from (potential) skin features related to sebum production. They are proactive and do not want to wait for the problem to occur. They do not focus on a classical anti-acne regime. They rather use skin care products which help them avoid the problem in the first place. This opens the door for cosmetic products which do not need to be monographed. The male skin care consumer appreciates natural and ‘clean’ cosmetics, as long as they provide the desired effect. CLR Berlin GmbH has developed CutiBiome CLR™ (LPM Complex, INCI: Octyldodecanol, Leptospermum Scoparium Branch/Leaf Oil, Piper Nigrum Seed Extract, Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract) to provide the male skin care consumer with these needs.
Anticipating on sebum-related skin changes Acne is well-known for its association with
microbes in the hair follicles. Sebum is produced inside the hair follicles and is food source for bacteria associated with acne. In order to provide an effective male skin care regime with the goal to reduce the likelihood of features associated with acne from occurring, an in-depth look needs to be taken into the association between skin, microbes and sebum. Up until recently Cutibacterium acnes
was seen as the ‘acne-bacterium’, which needed to be killed to reduce acne. The latest research does not contradict this, but we need to carefully distinguish between the different microbial levels. Cutibacterium acnes is a bacterium which has been recognized as a key species in acne. However, it is important to appreciate that C. acnes is the most prevalent bacterium in and on human skin, whether or not a person suffers from acne. C. acnesmainly resides inside the hair follicles, where, as an anaerobic bacterium, it is protected against oxygen and is close to its main food source, sebum, which is produced by the sebaceous glands. C. acnes shows different genetic
October 2020
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