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6 NEWS Multifunctional protection


Microbial inhibitors are no longer considered as mere functional ingredients performing an important role without being noticed, but as active elements of the formula able to fulfil multiple roles according to the product’ characteristics, trends or claims. Sinerga, observing this market


trend and studying new molecules with multiple activities, has developed a new concept of protection with 2 multifunctional ingredients: Mintiol and Parfiol. Mintiol is a natural and


Cosmos microbial inhibitor with


soothing and refreshing properties, able to characterize the formula adding extra benefits for skin. It is a mint derivative whose scent matches well with a wide choice of olfactory notes, such as citrus, fruity, floral and gourmand. It has a wide spectrum of activity on microorganisms and it is effective in a wide range of pH, from 4 to 9. It is able to act both as a complete preservative solution (suggested dosage: 2%) and as a booster of other preserving substances (from 0.5% to 1.6%), working in synergy to


protect the formula. Parfiol is a blend of esters and


aromatic alcohols that combines the formulative protection with odor masking properties, conferring a pleasant creamy olfactory note to the cosmetic. It is effective on a wide range of


Microbiome-friendly new launch


Royal DSM starts the market roll-out of its first European- made, cosmetic grade of PDO. Tilamar PDO with Nøøvista is 100% bio-sourced from non-GMO feedstocks and also certified as microbiome-friendly. Earlier this year, DSM and


Metex Nøøvista, the industrial subsidiary of Metabolic Explorer, a biological chemistry company that develops and industrializes competitive and sustainable fermentation processes, announced an exclusive, global strategic collaboration to deliver the first European-


made cosmetic PDO to the market. Tilamar PDO with Nøøvista is a multifunctional ingredient suitable for all cosmetic applications. It is produced at Metex Nøøvista’s new, state-of-the-art production site in Carling Saint Avold, France, and its benefits and performance as a sensory enhancer, solvent, humectant and preservative booster are proven in tests. An imbalanced skin


microbiome can lead to conditions such as acne, atopic dermatitis (eczema), dry skin and dandruff. As the use of cosmetics has been shown to


New orange peel wax


KahlWax has released a new natural fruit wax derived from the peel of oranges. The raw material is paired with berry wax, another natural fruit wax, to create a product that combines skin care with texture- enhancing and stabilizing properties. The resulting KahlWax 6698


Orange is a versatile cosmetic raw material with a distinctive citrus scent, which is suitable for hair and skin care products, where it provides smoothness, combability, and shine, and for


color cosmetics where it improves gloss and color brilliance. Due to the current situation, the official market launch was postponed to September and is now taking place digitally. The semi-solid orange peel


wax surrounds the fruit, protecting it against environmental influences like high temperatures and insects. Berry wax is a soft, pale wax derived from berry fruit peels of the Rhus Verniciflua tree. Due to its unique structure, it is able to


PERSONAL CARE NORTH AMERICA


reinforce crystal structures, thus increasing the texture and hardness of KahlWax 6698 Orange to ease its use. Berry wax additionally improves sensorial attributes and works as a re-fatting agent.


alter microbial composition and dynamics it is important to minimize the negative impact products exert on the skin microbiome, while also making sure that they comply with industry safety standards on microbiology. In a test performed by


MyMicrobiome, an independent control body that checks products for their impact on the skin’s microbiome, Tilamar PDO with Nøøvista, which has a proven preservative boosting effect, was shown to respect the balance of the skin microbiome.


microorganisms at a pH from 4 to 9. 1% of Parfiol is enough to completely preserve the formula. Otherwise, it can be used in combination with other preservative substances, using a concentration below 1%, as a booster of the co-microbial inhibitors. It matches well with musky, gourmand, ozonic and floral notes. From an internal panel, 0.5% of Parfiol is already able to have odour masking activities in combination with other ingredients with a characteristic scent.


Platinum award for actives company


Silab has received the highest distinction from the EcoVadis rating platform: the Platinum medal. With a score of 73/100 in


four areas (environment, social and human rights, ethics and responsible procurement), Silab, which has had Gold certification for four consecutive years, has this year climbed up into the top 1% of the companies awarded the best ratings by EcoVadis, with the Platinum medal. Xavier Gaillard, managing director for Strategy at Silab, said: “Our independence gives us the strategic autonomy necessary to express innovation at every level of activity, while integrating nature in each stage of our product development. We do everything we can to define sustainable strategies appropriate to environmental and biodiversity protection. We are proud and delighted to receive this distinction today, the result of an active commitment by all our staff, who are strongly involved in this eco-attitude.”


October 2020


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