58 SKIN CARE TEWL after SLS damage Unrepaired barrier
Barrier repair with 2% Rapeseed phytosterols
20 15 10 5 0
D-2 (***)/D-2
Unrepaired damages after 7 days
0% D7
Statistics: Mean on 23 volunteers Wilcoxon or Student t test (*) p<0.05 (***) p<0.001
-2% -4% -6% -8%
-10% -9%
30 25 20 15 10 5 0
(*) / Vehicle D-2 Hydration after SLS damage Unrepaired barrier
Unrepaired damages after 7 days
(***)/D-2
Statistics: Mean on 23 volunteers Wilcoxon or Student t test (***) p<0.001
D7
30% 25% 20% 15% 10% 5% 0%
Barrier repair with 2% Rapeseed phytosterols
(***)/ Vehicle
25%
Figure 1: SLS-induced skin barrier damage at D7 compared to before SLS exposure at D-2. Repairing effect of TEWL and hydration after 7 days of application of 2% rapeseed phytosterol formulation compared to a control vehicle.
phospholipid bilayers in human cell membranes and is a major component of the stratum corneum together with ceramides and fatty acids.17
In addition to
the structural benefits that phytosterols provide, they also have anti-inflammatory properties, which may be able to reverse the damage done by surfactants.18-20
Methods SLS physical barrier disruption clinical study The clinical trial was carried out a as a double-blind vehicle-controlled randomized study on the inner side of one forearm. The efficacy of 2% Rapeseed phytosterols in an oily vehicle was compared to the oily vehicle alone. At day - 2 (D-2) through day -1 (D-1) a 1% SLS occlusive patch (9 cm2) was applied on two areas to impair the skin barrier. The product treatment started 24 hours after patch removal (day 0 or D0) and measurements were taken at day -2, day 0, and day 7 (D-2, D0, and D7, respectively). The study was
a Phylum level
100 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0
37% -14% D-2 Microbiota before SLS patch application D0 Microbiota after SLS patch application
100 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0
performed on 23 healthy Caucasian female volunteers, having fair skin (Fitzpatrick skin type I-III), ages 20 to 64 years. Prior to the study, volunteers had self-reported thin, dry, and sensitive skin on the inner side of their forearms and have shown a similar response to a SLS occlusive patch on each arm. The volunteers applied one drop (about 1.3 mg/cm2
) of the Rapeseed phytosterol
formulation and the control vehicle formulation. Volunteers massaged the formulations into the skin until complete absorption. The final application was performed the night before the final day 7 (D7) measurement. Measurements included transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and hydration using a Tewameter® Corneometer®
and , respectively. Each
measurement was conducted under a controlled temperature of 21+1°C and a humidity of 45+5% after an acclimation period of 20 minutes. The value of TEWL is expressed in water mass evaporated in time and using the unit of area (g/m2h); A
b Family level 36%
-34% -42%
D-2 Microbiota before SLS patch application D0 Microbiota after SLS patch application
100 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0
significant decrease in the TEWL corresponds to an optimized skin barrier function; An increase in the Corneometer value indicates a moisturizing effect; Results are expressed as the percentage of mean difference between D7 and D0 for Rapeseed phytosterols vs its vehicle (D7- D0)rapeseed phytosterols / (D7-D0)vehicle. Normal data distribution was checked using the Shapiro-Wilk test. If data was normally distributed a paired student t-test was used and if data was not normally distributed, a Wilcoxon test was used.
Microbiome SLS disruption clinical study Due to the technical constraints of microbiome analysis, some changes from the initial SLS physical barrier clinical study had to be made. An occlusion patch containing 0.5% SLS was used over a larger surface area of skin (20 cm2
volunteers to ensure a large enough microbiota sample for sequencing. Additionally, either the Rapeseed
c Genus level -36%
-39% -42%
) on the backs of
D-2 Microbiota before SLS patch application
D0 Microbiota after SLS patch application
Figure 2: Skin microbiome composition before (D-2) and after 24 hours exposure to a 0.5% SLS-occlusive patch removal (D0). A. Microbiome changes on the Phylum level of taxonomy. B. Microbiome changes on the Family level of taxonomy. C. Microbiome changes on the Genus level of taxonomy.
PERSONAL CARE NORTH AMERICA October 2020
Relative abundance percentage (%)
TEWL value
% of variation at D7 vs vehicle Relative abundance percentage (%)
Water loss reduction Corneometer value
Relative abundance percentage (%)
% of variation at D7 vs vehicle
Hydration improvement
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