34 NATURALS
accelerated in unprecedented times of the COVID-19 pandemic and will have a lasting impact, i.e. ‘new normal’.50
With this high
growth and rapidly evolving market, cosmetic companies, indie brands, and large corporations alike, need to be agile, adapt fast to market changes and have a holistic approach to meet consumers demand and their heightened awareness about what they want. In today’s accelerated digital world, timing is of essence. Adding a splash of natural extracts in formulations will not make the cut anymore. With more and more ways for consumers of getting informed, availability in various digital formats, websites, podcasts, and special mobile apps to check information, decipher INCI listings, instantaneously at their fingertips, greenwashing days are over! Today, savvy and health-, environmentally-, and socially-conscious consumers demand full transparency and they expect brands to provide information to support their marketing and labeling claims. This is totally in line with regulatory requirements that claims must be truthful, not misleading, and substantiated.51,52
Compliance to quality
standards from sourcing to users, or from seed to skin (e.g. Good Agricultural and Collection Practices, Good Manufacturing Practices) and adherence to well-recognized certifications will support this goal.
PC
References 1 Global Cosmetic Ingredients Market 2020-2024. Technavio May 2020
2 Ecovia intelligence. May 2020 3 Fatima A, Alok S, Agarwal P, et al. Benefits of herbal extracts in cosmetics: a review. Int J Pharm Sci Res. 2013;4(10):3746−3760
4 Schultz JC. How plants fight dirty. Nature 2002; 416:267
5 Even during a pandemic, consumers want natural. Happi, July 2020, 20
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7 H.R.5017 Natural Cosmetics Act - Nov. 8, 2019. To amend the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act to treat as misbranded cosmetics with packaging or labeling using the term ‘‘natural’’ unless the product meets certain standards
8 Natural Cosmetics Act to set legal definition of “natural”. Cosmetic Design USA, Nov. 6, 2019
9 Proposed “Natural Cosmetics Act” gains traction with Indies. Cosmetics & Toiletries; 2019
10 Wesson A, Gershon H. Certified content brings transparency to natural claims. Personal Care Europe, April 2020:41-43
11 COSMetics Organic and Natural Standard. v3.1 June 2020
12 Regulation (EU) 2018/848 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 30 May 2018 on organic production and labelling of organic products
13 Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act (1938) 14 Yvon P. Back to Basics: Ensuring product safety.
PERSONAL CARE NORTH AMERICA
Figure 1:Naturality: At the intersection of Natural, Clean, and Green Beauty. Cosmetics & Toiletries 2019; 134;5:20-25
15 H. R. 4296 Safe Cosmetics and Personal Care Products Act of 2019 – Sept. 12, 2019. To amend title VI of the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act to ensure the safe use of cosmetics
16 Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council (2009)
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20
https://www.beautycounter.com/the-never-list 21
https://goop.com/beauty/personal-care/clean- beauty-and-why-its-important/
22
https://www.honest.com/baby-products/baby- personal-care/honest-standard
23
https://www.sephora.com/beauty/clean-beauty- products
24
https://www.target.com/c/clean-beauty/-/N-55bkn 25
https://credobeauty.com/pages/the-credo-clean- standard-1
26
https://www.thedetoxmarket.com/pages /banned-ingredients
27
https://follain.com/pages/restricted-ingredients-list 28 Wanner M, Nathan N. Clean cosmetics: the science behind the trend. Harvard Health Blog, March 12, 2019
29 Darbre P. The history of endocrine-disrupting chemicals. Current Opinion in Endocrine and Metabolic Research 2019, 7:26–33
30 Ripamonti E, et al. Endocrin disruption by mixtures in topical consumer products. Cosmetics 2018; 5(61):22
31 Gore A, Cohn B. Endocrine-disrupting chemicals in cosmetics. JAMA Dermatol. 2020; 156(5):603-604
32 Palefsky I. Simple and safe. Formulating clean beauty. Cosmetics & Toiletries Nov./Dec. 2019; 134:10:64-70
33 Federal Trade Commission (FTC). Guides for the use of environmental marketing claims. 16 CFR Part 260. Oct. 11, 2012
34 Dell’Acqua G. Green is not enough. Social progress is the next chapter for naturals. Cosmetics & Toiletries 2019; 134: 7:28-40
35 Bom S. et al. A step forward on sustainability in the
cosmetics industry: a review. J. of Cleaner Production 2019; 225: 270-290
36 Yvon P. Sustainability and natural cosmetic ingredients. Happi 2020; 34-36.
37 Bryant T. Five big challenges to developing sustainable beauty brands. Beauty Independent, July 26, 2020
38 Sustainability is still top-of-mind for Covid-19 consumers. GCI April 27, 2020
39 Genomatica: US consumers embrace sustainability despite Covid-19. GCI, August 3,2020
40 The best green beauty of 2020. ELLE, April 10, 2020
41 Bom S, Ribeiro HM, Marto J. Embracing sustainability. Important practices and impact in cosmetics. Cosmetics & Toiletries 2020; 135 (3): 40-47
42
https://www.lorealusa.com/media/press- releases/2020/may/forthefuture
43
https://sustainablebrands.com/read/ organizational-change/p-g-smashes-2020-goals- raises-the-bar-with-ambition-2030
44
https://www.elcompanies.com/en/news-and- media/newsroom/company-features/2019/elc- announces-its-2020-2025-environmental-social- and-governance-goals
45
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48
http://ir.ultabeauty.com/news-releases/news- release-details/2020/Conscious-Beauty-at-Ulta- Beauty-Reinforces-Commitment-to-Sustainability- Transparency/
default.aspx, July 14, 2020
49 Brown R. Bluemercury builds Conscious beauty assortment as pandemic-era interest in self-care climbs. Beauty Independent, August 6, 2020
50 Mroczkowski A. Indie beauty entrepreneurs ponder the long- term impacts of Covid-19 on the beauty industry. Beauty Independent, April 14, 2020.
51 Regulation (EU) No. 655/2013 of 10 July 2013, Laying Down Common Criteria for the Justification of Claims Used in Relation to Cosmetic Products
52 Yvon P. Back to basics. Product labeling, manufacturing and launch. Cosmetics & Toiletries 2019; 134:10:35-41
October 2020
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