50 SKIN CARE 0 3.5% GENENCARE®OSMS BA 50 100 150 200 250
Zein number (ZN: mg N/100ml) 300
350 400 450 500 550 600 650 700
mix SLES/DLSS + 3.5% GENENCARE®OSMS BA
mix SLES/DLSS
SLES NON IRRITANT MODERATELY IRRITANT Strongly IRRITANT
Figure 2: Results of Zein test comparing the skin irritation potential of different surfactant solutions. (SLES: Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulfate; DLSS: Dissodium LaurylSulfosuccinate).
of osmolytes. The main functional osmolytes in skin are betaine, myo-inositol and taurine and
their transporters are betaine/γ-amino-n butyric acid (GABA) transporter (BGT1), sodium dependent myo-inositol transporter (SMIT) and taurine transporter (TAUT), respectively. Osmolytes are naturally present in the cells
of living organisms. They are involved in osmosis, the control of the water balance in living cells. Osmosis is a critical biological process, allowing for example the survival of marine organisms in hypertonic environments such as sea water. Osmolytes fulfil two major roles: (1)
controlling and regulating osmotic processes in order to preserve the intracellular solution for metabolic activities and (2) protecting macromolecular structures from osmotic stress. Many organisms accumulate osmolytes in response to dry or saline conditions, and therefore osmolytes are also often called osmoprotectants. Glycine betaine belongs to the osmolyte ingredient family.
4.5 4.0 3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0
Glycine betaine hydrates and protects Glycine betaine is an osmolyte and amino acid derivative which occurs naturally in skin as part of the NMF. It moisturizes and protects the skin by applying three out of the four moisturization strategies described in Figure 1: humectancy, skin barrier function improvement via tight junction strengthening and osmoprotection.4 As part of the NMF, glycine betaine has a
water binding effect which increases the water content of the horny layer and produces a measurable moisturizing effect and an improvement in skin smoothness and suppleness. By strengthening the tight junctions of the superficial part of the living epidermis, glycine betaine limits transepidermal water loss and improves the skin barrier function5
(Fig 6). Additionally, due
to its osmolytic nature, glycine betaine protects skin cells from osmotic stress and helps to protect skin proteins in the epidermis against denaturation caused by use of soap,
n 24h n 48h
detergents, alcohol or other solvents.6 GENENCARE®
OSMS BA is a highly
purified sugar beet extract obtained by upcycling of sugar beet molasses and contains 99% pure glycine betaine. It can be used in hand care products to help mitigate the impact of surfactants and improve the sensory profile of hand sanitizers. It also adds a lasting touch of comfort by improving the skin barrier function.
Glycine betaine reduces the negative effects of surfactants Adding natural betaine to a hand cleanser mitigates the damaging impacts of surfactants. This effect has been demonstrated both in vitro and in vivo.
* * * 0 GENENCARE® * * 3.5 57 OSMS BA concentration (%) in a 10% SLES solution
Figure 3: Clinical evaluation of skin irritation score after 24h and 48h occlusive patch test (n=25). * significant versus control (SLS 10% solution without GENENCARE®
OSMS BA) p<0.05. PERSONAL CARE NORTH AMERICA
Protein stabilizing effect of glycine betaine in Zein test.7 Zein is a protein found in maize which is similar to keratin. The Zein test finds the irritation potential of a surfactant solution by measuring the level of Zein protein which can be dissolved in the solution. Higher levels of dissolved Zein signify higher skin irritation potential. A Zein number (ZN) represents the amount of nitrogen (in mg) detected in 100 ml of surfactant solution. The higher the Zein number, the higher the in vivo irritation potential of the tested material. The Zein test was applied to two
surfactant solutions containing 3.5% GENENCARE OSMS BA and two control solutions (Fig 2). Zein protein was measured with the BCA Protein Assay using a UV/Vis spectrometer. The results showed that sodium lauryl
ether sulfate is highly irritating. Mixed disodium laurylsulfosuccinate/sodium lauryl ether sulfate is moderately irritating, however, when combined with 3.5% glycine betaine it
October 2020
Irritation score
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