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62 HALAL INGREDIENTS


Carrot Halal ingredients: skin care benefits


Dr. Beom Zoo Lee - Chemland, Republic of Korea Dr. Bae-Hwan Kim - Keimyung University, Republic of Korea


Halal, which translates to ‘possible’ in Sharia law, is used to describe food, medical, and cosmetic products that do not violate the laws of Islam. Whereas Halal has been mainly associated with food, Malaysia announced its Halal cosmetic standards in 2008, resulting in numerous Halal-certified cosmetics having been released in the country as of 2021. Indonesia’s LPPOM MUI (The Assessment Institute for Foods, Drugs, and Cosmetics of Majelis Ulama Indonesia) will also require all cosmetics to be Halal-certified by October 2026.


The global market for Halal cosmetics was


$66 billion in 2019. Furthermore, the 2020/2021 State of Global Islamic Economy Report predicts that the Halal cosmetics market will see an average annual growth of 2.9% over the next six years. Although animal-based collagen was used


as an ingredient for cosmetics in the past, recent cosmetics instead mainly use natural ingredients. Customers tend to have more trust in cosmetics or ingredients that are derived from natural sources. With Halal certification, such products would be in a strong position to enter the Halal market. Carrots are an agricultural vegetable product


belonging to the Apiaceae family. Eastern carrots tend to be long and thick whereas Western carrots tend to be relatively shorter and thinner in shape. In the first half of 2021, carrot production in Korea reached 33,000 tonnes, which is up 24.4% from the previous year and up 14.1% from the annual average production. Carrots are known to help prevent arteriosclerosis, strengthen the immune system, and improve eye and skin health. The skin-related effects of carrots


are attributed to extensin, a type of hydroxyproline-rich glycoprotein found in carrot cells. The cell walls of carrot cells are composed of plant glycoproteins containing hydroxyproline (OH-proline) known as extensin, which are similar to collagen. Extensin, which has an -OH functional group on the proline side chain, is used to produce skin care cosmetics and hair products with moisturising effects. Chemland developed new Halal ingredients


that could potentially replace animal-based collagen by subjecting agricultural products such as carrots, oyster mushrooms, mung beans, and red ginseng to plant enzyme treatment. Chemland has a total of 21 Halal


certifications – eight for new cosmetic PERSONAL CARE July 2021 Carrot papain 5.0 ■ Carrot bromelain 5.0 ■


120 100 80 60 40 20 0


1 5 10 15 New carrot halal ingredient concentration (%) Figure 1: ABTS radical scavenging activities of the new carrot Halal ingredients. Carrot papain 5.0 ■ Carrot bromelain 5.0 ■


70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0


20


1


20


40


60 Figure 2: SOD-like activities of the new carrot Halal ingredients.


ingredients and 13 for modelling facial masks and cosmetic creams – from The Assessment Institute for Foods, Drugs and Cosmetics of MUI, the Halal certification body of Indonesia. This paper describes the biological activities of new ingredients extracted from Halal carrots and the antioxidant, anti-wrinkle, and clinically-proven moisturising effects of Halal creams containing the new ingredients.


Experimental procedure and results Development of new Halal ingredients extracted via plant enzyme treatment In this study, new ingredients were extracted from carrots via plant enzyme extraction for


use as a new cosmetic ingredient that could potentially replace fish-based or animal- based collagen. The extracts were produced via hot water extraction for two hours using a 60°C purified water: carrot = 75% : 25% (w/w) mixture. Subsequently, the Halal- certified plant-derived enzymes papain (EC 3.4.22.2, endopeptidase) and bromelain (EC 3.4.22.4, protease) were added with weight concentrations of 2.5% and 5.0% (w/w), respectively. After treatment for 30 minutes, the mixtures were treated at 85°C for 30 minutes to inactivate the enzymes. After cooling the solutions to room temperature (25°C), the solutions were filtered and the


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80 New carrot halal ingredient concentration (%)


100


SOD-like activity (%)


ABTS radical scavengin abilty (%)


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