58 HALAL INGREDIENTS Richard Scott – Editor, Personal Care Magazine

The Islamic economy has for many years focused on Halal certification of processes associated with food and finance, but the Halal cosmetics industry is experiencing a boom thanks to young Muslims.

Adapting formulations to ensure they fit within certain boundaries is a very tricky task, not helped by constantly shifting requirements of certification bodies. Halal has been on the beauty and personal care industry’s radar for some time, and for several years has been hampered by a lack of understanding regarding the definition and requirements of certification. Paul Cochrane is a senior

associate at DinarStandard, a niche research and advisory firm specialising in the Emerging Muslim markets, based in New York and Dubai. DinarStandard have released a report titled The State of the Global Islamic Economy Report, which covers a wide range of sectors. We spoke to Paul to learn more about the Halal cosmetics sector and how it impacts cosmetics and personal care.

PERSONAL CARE: Why is it important for cosmetic manufacturers to consider Halal ranges in their portfolios? PAUL COCHRANE: There is firstly the potential to market Halal cosmetics to 1.8 billion Muslims, but it goes

beyond that. Halal cosmetics are increasingly intertwined with other developments, such as for clean and natural beauty, vegan and cruelty free, and for traceability. The Halal logo gives consumers trust in a product, in addition to other certifications. Halal cosmetics also ties into the growing demand for more inclusive cosmetics, that represents diversity. Today, consumers want many things – organic, vegan, eco-friendly etc – and Halal certified cosmetics is another added layer. Furthermore, it is not just about appealing to Muslims. There is demand for Halal cosmetics from non-Muslims, that want non-animal derived ingredients, and traceability. Many Halal cosmetics companies do not overly emphasise the Halal logo, but


all the certifications and attributes to stand out from the crowd. PC: What types of ingredients need to be considered when assessing Halal compliance? PC: Gelatin is a key ingredient to be considered, as the majority of gelatine produced is either bovine, from cows, or porcine, from pigs. While porcine is haram (not permitted), neither is bovine gelatine unless the cow has been slaughtered in accordance with Islamic principles. It has taken time to have enough Halal certified gelatine for the market. In short, it is animal-derived ingredients that need to be Halal certified, especially from forbidden animals such as dogs and pigs, and related by-products for formulations. Any ingredient that harms health is a further factor – such as mercury, and lead, also parabens. Human stem cells can also not be used. Carmine is also not allowed, which has been widely used for creating red colouring for lipsticks and eyeshadows. For instance, 1,000 crushed carmine beetles are used to make the red colouring. A company, not a Halal cosmetics ingredient supplier or company, has recently developed a vegan carmine, which Halal cosmetics companies could use.

PC: Are there any other manufacturing processes apart from formulation that impact compliance? PC: That is the major issue, to get ingredients and the formulation certified. There are no requirements for a Halal cosmetics product to be eco- friendly, to use biodegradable packaging for instance, yet Islam emphasises the importance of health, and the environment, and sustainability, so to be truly Halal, a product should arguably be eco-friendly. For some, financing should also be derived from Shariah-compliant financial institutions, so Islamic banks. Traceability is also important.


Halal and the impact on cosmetic ingredients

PC: A problem in the past was a lack of consistent advice on how Halal relates to cosmetic ingredients. Has the picture become clearer? PC: Yes the picture is much clearer as standards have improved, and ingredients manufacturers have become more aware of Halal, and the demand for Halal certified ingredients. Malaysia’s JAKIM, its national certifier, has pushed the sector’s development. Indonesia introducing a mandatory Halal law is also set to be a game changer over the next few years, as cosmetics will have to be Halal certified, and it is a huge market.

PC: Are there still some grey areas that need to be pinned down?

PC: Not to the same extent as a few years ago. Now it is about Halal certifying new ingredients that the industry may use that has never had Halal certification before. This primarily concerns animal-derived ingredients, but formulations are also becoming more complex, so the whole supply chain needs to be considered. Traceability is very important for Halal products. Plant-based and natural cosmetics are also expected to grow, so such raw ingredients will need to be analysed and Halal certified. That said, countries do need to issue their own Halal standards, and it would be beneficial to have a more universal recognised standard to

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