fair-trade, ethically-sourced and sustainable are the mindful buzzwords of the moment. In 2021, consumer expectation of products has changed: we do not just want them to make us look good, but feel and live better too. It is perfectly understandable. With so much time cooped up indoors, fresh air, blue skies and woodland walks are more crucial than ever. COVID-19 has ushered Mother Nature back into our lives and reset our relationship with the environment. Givaudan’s research shows that 61% of Chinese consider doing exercise more important than they did before Coronavirus, and almost half of Brazilians say the environment has become a higher priority in the last year. As a result, consumers are looking to infuse the great outdoors into our beauty buys and self-care. Indeed, a mammoth 84% of American women like products containing biotech moisturising polymers. To meet this new standard of natural beauty, Givaudan has the latest plant-based technology at their disposal. Blends of phytoncides, the natural elements emitted by trees that revitalise forest air, can be added to skincare and pampering products – bringing the ‘forest bathing’ trend to the beauty universe. Adaptogenic botanicals can provide plant-powered solutions for skin and wellbeing. Givaudan’s K-phyto™ [PP] GHK, for example, is a phyto-boosted peptide, which helps to gently purify oily skin. K-phyto [PP] GHK is an innovative molecule

that combines the best of botanicals and peptides to act on sebum production’s mechanisms. Thanks to the phytopeptide technology (combining a peptide with a natural phytochemical molecule), it offers a full set of actions, starting with preserved antioxidant and anti-ageing activities compared to the initial molecules (caffeic acid and matrikine GHK). A double blind and placebo controlled


study was performed on 22 female volunteers (average age of 41 years old), selected for their oily skin. Volunteers had to apply on half of their face a toner containing K-phyto [PP] GHK at 0.2%, and on the other half a placebo, twice a day for 4 weeks. Skin sebum measurement was performed by Sebumeter® on the forehead of the volunteers at D0, as a baseline, and after 2 weeks and 4 weeks of treatment. It appears that the ingredient at 0.2% decreases significantly the skin sebum content in only 2 weeks, with even more pronounced results after 4 weeks of use. It results in a decrease of the sebum down to -35.5% after 2 weeks and -67.5% after a month, with an efficacy up to five times better than the placebo.

A brighter tomorrow There is no denying the devastating impact of COVID-19, but amid the darkness there have been surprising moments of light, especially now we are on the long road to recovery. The third of Givaudan’s trending consumer types, the Sensorial Optimist, embraces this bright side. As the crisis recedes, a feel-good wave is gaining momentum. As consumers rediscover more and more freedoms, a responsible ‘can-do’ attitude is taking hold. We want to be ready for life outside, and we are choosing products designed to boost our mood and help us prepare for the new normal that awaits. We want to soften and cure irritation and make our skin feel great before layering on our mask and heading out the door. Givaudan is well equipped with many

solutions to fit these demands. One active ingredient from the Swiss brand that is particularly adept at coping with masks and sanitising is PrimalHyal™ 300, an average molecular weight Hyaluronic Acid (HA) (100- 300 kDa) obtained by white biotechnology. This specific HA grade helps to maintain an effective skin defence level against harmful

bacteria contamination. It also boosts the wound healing process. PrimalHyal 300 reinforces the natural

immune system by stimulating the release of specific antibacterial peptides, the β-defensin 2 (DEFB2). In case of a lesion, PrimalHyal 300 stimulates the keratinocytes and fibroblasts proliferation and migration to accelerate the cellular reparation process. During ex vivo study, human explants were incubated with this ingredient for 3 hours and the antimicrobial properties of the supernatants were evaluated against E. coli. It has demonstrated potent antimicrobial properties on gram-negative bacteria through the release of DEFB2. In vivo test also demonstrates that PrimalHyal 300 boosts the skin cellular reparation process by fibroblasts and keratinocytes proliferation and migration.

Resilience from responsible relevance

The pandemic has disrupted conventional consumer typecasting, reshaped behaviour and fast-tracked fledgling trends. It has brought challenges to the beauty industry, but also interesting new opportunities. The Simple Minimalist, Sustainable Natural and the Sensorial Optimist have arrived on the consumer scene, and they are likely to stay long after COVID-19 is under control. The beauty sector has survived other crises, and it will survive this one. When times are tough, people reach for pick-me-ups. For some, it’s celebrating the small things with new lipstick. For others, it’s making sure we look after ourselves with a spot of self-care. The stats ring true. In France, 59% of consumers are using more beauty products since the outbreak. The market is there; it’s just redefined. In embracing these unprecedented shifts, a post-pandemic beauty industry will stay in style.


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