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56 HYGIENE


hydration and skin barrier improvement properties of Pentavitin (now referred to as ‘Saccharide Isomerate’) in a standard shower gel formulation. The randomised and placebo controlled study


was carried out on a total of 50 Caucasian women aged between 25 and 45 and with dry skin. Two shower gels containing different concentrations of Saccharide Isomerate (0.2% and 0.5%) were tested and compared against placebo (base formula without Saccharide Isomerate). All three formulations were soap-free (pH


During the study, 25 volunteers were tested with the shower gels with 0.2% Saccharide Isomerate and 0.5% Saccharide Isomerate and 25 volunteers were tested with the shower gel placebo. The test products were applied on the volar forearm once on Day 0 and twice daily from Day 1 to Day 6 with the last application taking place in the evening, at least 12 hours before an evaluation on Day 7. Biophysical measurements were taken using the DermaLab device to assess skin hydration (conductance) and the Tewameter device to assess transepidermal water loss at the baseline and after one hour, 24 hours and seven days. Volunteers also completed a self-evaluation questionnaire.


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Findings The skin hydration results are reported in Figure 1 and are showed as percentages compared to the baseline. The use of the shower gel placebo led to a significant decrease in skin hydration immediately after showering and after 7 days this was still not recovered. In contrast, after just one use, the shower gel formulations with Saccharide Isomerate (0.2%, 0.5%) were shown to preserve and even boost skin hydration for 24 hours and even after one week these formulations were still hydrating the skin and preventing skin dryness (Fig 1). Additionally, the evaluations of


transepidermal water loss over 7 days showed that the formulations containing Saccharide Isomerate (0.2%, 0.5%) helped to reinforce the skin barrier just one hour after showering and even after one week of frequent showering. The self-evaluation questionnaire supported these findings, with 75% of respondents reporting that their skin felt softer and less tight after seven days of using the shower gels with Saccharide Isomerate, and 71% that their skin felt more moisturised.


Study 2: Lasting hydration for Asian skin in a body wash formulation In our second new clinical study, we investigated the skin hydration efficacy of Saccharide Isomerate in a body wash formulation. This time, 33 Asian women aged between 21 and 65 and with dry skin were enrolled. Two body washes containing different concentrations of Saccharide Isomerate (0.2% and 0.5%) were tested and compared against placebo (base formula without Saccharide Isomerate). All three formulations were soap- based (pH


During the study, the volunteers applied ˜9).


test products on the volar forearm once on Day 0 and twice daily from Day 1 to Day 6 with the last application taking place in the evening, at


PERSONAL CARE July 2021 *** p < 0.001


26 24 22 20 18 16 14 12 10


Bodywash 0.2% PENTAVITIN® Bodywash 0.5% PENTAVITIN®


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Bodywash ■ ■ ■


D0


D01h


D7


Figure 2: Evaluation of skin hydration (MMSC) over 7 days with body wash (soap based pH 9) formulations


least 12 hours before the evaluation on Day 7. Measurements were taken using a capacitative MoistureMeter SC at the baseline, after one hour and after seven days.


Findings MoistureMeter SC readings for the placebo and both Saccharide Isomerate body wash formulations, taken at the baseline, one hour and seven days, are plotted in Figure 2. The formulations containing Saccharide Isomerate (0.2%, 0.5%) led to a significant increase in hydration compared to the placebo. Specifically, within one hour of application, skin exposed to the body wash formulations enriched with Saccharide Isomerate had moved from a dry status into a normal status and optimum skin hydration could still be maintained after seven days.


Boosting foam volume in soap- based products Saccharide Isomerate is soluble in water at all ratios and easy to incorporate into rinse-off formulations. We have also measured its foam volume boosting properties. For this test, a soap-based cream cleanser containing 0.5% Saccharide Isomerate and the placebo formula were dissolved into water and foam volume was assessed with a SITA foam tester R-2000. Under these conditions, the cream cleanser with 0.5% Saccharide Isomerate was shown to boost foam volume by up to 43% more than the placebo.


Conclusion Pentavitin is a 100% natural bioactive, sustainably produced using sugar isomerization technology. By mimicking essential molecules found in skin’s NMF, this bioactive binds to


the skin, locks in moisture, and is not washed off. Pentavitin, as supplied by DSM, does not contain preservatives, is Halal-certified and its ingredients are China-listed. It has one of the lowest carbon footprints in the industry for a moisturizing ingredient and is also NATRUE- certified and approved by ECOCERT and COSMOS. The hydration benefits of Pentavitin have


already been proven to last for 72 hours after application in leave-on products. Our new studies further demonstrate its benefits also in rinse-off applications such as shower gels and body washes. Notably, body wash formulations with Pentavitin have been shown to deliver optimum skin hydration for seven days, while shower gel formulations with Pentavitin have been shown to prevent skin cleansing associated dryness and significantly boost hydration for 24 hours and longer, and to strengthen the skin barrier. Pentavitin can be used in multiple


applications and is an ideal candidate for rinse- off formulations that both cleanse and hydrate the skin – a still unmet consumer need. DSM’s own line-up of ready-to-use formulations includes shampoos, shower gels and washes, and also newer products that are growing in popularity such as micellar water and mousse cleansers.


References 1 Mintel - Soap, Bath and Shower Products 2019


2 DSM Consumer Insights hub 3 Google Trends, consumer searches for “Dry Hands”, 24 March 2020


4 Cosmetics & Toiletries 2012; 127(9): 636-643 www.personalcaremagazine.com


PC


DRY Mean MMSC readings


NORMAL


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