AFRICA FOCUS MEDIAN
14000 12000 10000 8000 6000 4000 2000 0
CHARACTERISTIC LIFE Placebo KeraMatch V Conditioner Treatment
Figure 2: Graph showing the difference in Median values following one conditioner application.
overall benefits of these actives. Perceptions of treatments containing proteins on Afro-textured hair are associated by some consumers with negative results including dryness, stiffness and fragility. Making sure hair actives are adapted to
every type of hair, showing performance without compromising on aesthetics is primordial. African-textured hair is very curly and has the highest fragility across all ethnicities, therefore, it requires a careful choice of products and techniques. Croda has decided inclusivity is not
an option. Thanks to a strong network of application laboratories in the world, the company based in UK encourages diversity and develops innovative products adapted to different hair types. The new protein, KeraMatchTM
V (INCI:
Aqua (and) Hydrolyzed Pea Protein (and) Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein) is a great example of an inclusive response. It is a plant-derived protein blend with an optimised amino acid profile to closely match animal- derived keratin, offering a viable vegan alternative. Offering many of the functional benefits
provided by animal keratin, KeraMatch V improves the overall quality of damaged
30000 25000 20000 15000 10000 5000 0
29
Placebo
KeraMatch V Conditioner Treatment
Figure 3: Graph showing the difference in Characteristic Life values following one conditioner application.
TABLE 2: CONDITIONER FORMULATIONS USED TO EVALUATE THE STRENGTH BENEFITS OFFERED BY KERAMATCH V ON AFRO-TEXTURED HAIR.
Ingredient/INCI name Water (Aqua)
Incroquat™ CTC- 30 (Cetrimonium Chloride (and) Water (aqua))
Crodacol™ CS50 (Cetearyl Alcohol)
Euxyl® PE9010 (Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin)
KeraMatchTM V (Aqua (and) Hydrolyzed Pea Protein (and) Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein)
and fragile hair, with increased strength performance while providing exceptional consumer perceivable improvements in the sensory attributes. With data collected from various studies done on European, Asian and Type VII Textured hair, KeraMatch V offers an all-encompassing solution for a range of needs impacting the hair care market. Single fibre tensile testing was used to assess and validate the performance efficacy of the vegetable protein blend on European and Asian hair, showing the untreated hair needs less energy to break, and therefore is much easier to break, than treated hair.
Placebo ■ KeraMatch V■ 1
0.8 0.6 0.4 0.2 0
1 10 100 1000 Cycles to break Figure 4: Graph showing the difference in Survival Probability following one conditioner application.
www.personalcaremagazine.com 10000 100000 1000000
Placebo Conditioner % w/w
89.50 5.00 4.50 1.00
--
Conditioner with KeraMatch V (% w/w)
85.06 5.00 4.50 1.00
4.44
Efficacy on Type VII Textured hair was assessed using an alternative method. The tensile test consists of straining the hair fibre to failure. Due to its fragile nature, the Afro- textured hair could break at any given kink/ twist if a pulling force is applied, and this would not give a true representation of the integrity of the hair. With cyclic fatigue, we look at the intrinsic and extrinsic nature of Afro-textured hair. The mechanism consists of extending a certain stress onto the hair fibre and then relaxing it. The damage is therefore progressive and localised. Applying a constant motion of force-extension and relaxation simulates everyday grooming practices and consequently takes into consideration the natural fragility of African hair. Each fibre is subjected to a fixed deformation at a regular frequency. The result from the cyclic fatigue test is to measure how many times the deformation can be applied before the fibre breaks. Three parameters were measured to assess
the overall strength performance of Type VII Afro-textured hair treated with the vegetable protein blend: Characteristic Life, Survival Probability and the Median. Characteristic Life is defined as the time taken for 63,2% of the sample size of hair fibres to break. The Median is the median of the number of cycles that hair fibres survive up to the point of breakage. An increase in both parameters would indicate that the hair fibre has become more resilient/strong. The Survival Probability is the likelihood of hair fibres surviving x-number of cycles. A higher survival probability suggests
July 2021 PERSONAL CARE
Survival Probability
Median
Characteristic Life (a)
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84
