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SUN CARE IN-VITRO SPF 90 Initial Feel (During rub-out)


Absorbency: 1=slow➞ 5=fast


Wetness: 1=more watery feel ➞ 5=less watery feel


Spreadability: 1=difficult ➞ 5=easy


18 20


After-Feel Tackiness: 1=tacky➞ 5=not tacky


Residue**


Gloss: 1=not glossy➞ 5=glossy


Smoothness: 1=not smooth ➞ 5=smooth


Calculated SPF HASE


polymer from competition with same INCI


Figure 3: In vitro SPF assessment of different Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer.


Solvay’s multifunctional polymer enables


the creation of a uniform-sized dispersed phase (containing UV filters) in oil-in-water systems. It also minimises coalescence by providing a durable film around the dispersed phase that helps maintain droplet size uniformity even after water evaporation and gives minimal coalescence of the oil droplets when the emulsion is dry. The absence of coalescence ensures the best coverage of the UV filters on the skin surface thereby optimising the efficiency of the UV protection. Not all Acrylates/Beheneth-25


Methacrylate Copolymers perform the same. The unique structure of Solvay’s multifunctional polymer based on proprietary associative monomers, gives a distinctive boosting performance in sun care formulations that is by far superior to any other Acrylates/ Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer (Fig 3). The assessment was done using a


formulation with the following composition: 10% PBSA, 3% Butyl Methoxydibenzoyl Methane, 6% Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate,


70.000 60.000 50.000 40.000 30.000 20.000 10.000 0


2 (0.6*) 5 (1.5*) 10 (3.0*) % PBSA-TEA Solution (*% Salt equivalent)


Notes: PBSA-TEA: Triethanolamine salt of Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (PBSA). Formulation: Rheomer SC-Plus-6% as supplied, Isohexadecane-4%, Ethylhexyl Cocoate-6%, Octylmethoxycinnamate-6%, BMDBM-4%, triethanolamine-q.s. to pH 7-7.5. Formulations passed 4 wks stability at 50°C, and 12 weeks at 40°C and RT


Figure 5: Viscosity vs. PBSA. www.personalcaremagazine.com C Rheomer® SC Plus


Residue: 1=have residue ➞ 5=no residue


Smoothness Gloss*


**Significant difference at >99.5% confidence level *Significant difference at >95% confidence level


Figure 4: Sensory evaluation of one of our formulations containing Rheomer® SC Plus (Formula SC-16-065) compared to market formula.


6% Ethylhexyl Cocoate, 4% Isohexadecane, 5% of Rheomer® SC Plus or competitive Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer.


A sun protection solution without all the negatives Sensory performance is an important aspect in creating end-user satisfaction and conveying a perception of efficacy. People are using sunscreens less than they should because they could be hard to apply and a hassle. They tend to be extra thick or extra oily solutions that do not spread and absorb very well on the skin, leaving an unpleasant feeling of tackiness and moist skin.


This means that in high SPF formulations


containing greater quantities of sunscreen actives, developers have the arduous task of balancing rheology and stabilisation properties with aesthetic properties which is quite a challenge! However, thanks to Solvay’s multi-functional polymer, formulators can now perform the perfect emulsification,


Ingredients/INCI


stabilisation and rheology modification in oil-in-water emulsion systems with improved sensory benefits. Solvay’s multifunctional polymer is a hydrophobically-modified alkali- swellable emulsion polymer, with best-in-class electrolyte tolerance and an outstanding agent for stabilising formulations even in emulsifier- free systems.


A unique sensory experience 15 consumers participated in a blind test about the sensory attributes of an SPF # 50 product containing Solvay’s multifunctional polymer (Formulation SC-16-065, available in Figure 1, SPF + 46) vs a conventional SPF 50 product from the market place without Solvay’s multifunctional polymer. During the rub-out phase, testers found that


the Solvay’s multifunctional polymer formulation was absorbed faster. In terms of after-feel, testers found the formula with Solvay’s multifunctional polymer to be significantly less tacky and left with less residue on the skin. The formula with Solvay’s multifunctional polymer was also rated as giving more gloss to the skin (Fig 4).


FORMULATION SC-16-036 : MINERAL SUNBLOCK CREAM Phase A


Deionized Water Glycerin


Rheozan SH1 B (Succinoglycan) Rheomer SC Plus1 (Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer)


Sodium Hydroxide 20% solution Alkamuls GS 1001 Cetearyl Alcohol


Alkamuls PSMS 20PC1 Sorbitan Stearate Mackaderm LIA1


Mackaderm AD 2081 Mackaderm DCC1 Solvasil Wax B1


Caprylyl Caprylate Parsol TX3


Zinc Oxide PI2 Preservative


(Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate) (Polysorbate 60) (Isoamyl Laurate)


(Diethylhexyl Adipate) (Dicapryly Carbonate) (Dimethiconol Behenate)


(Titanium Dioxide, Silica, Dimethicone) (Zinc Oxide)


% w/w q.s.


2.0 0.3 2.5 q.s. 4.0 1.0 2.7 0.5 4.0 4.0 5.0 1.0


3.0


10.0 8.0 0.5


Procedure: Disperse Rheozan SH with Glycerin and add in water and then add Rheomer SC Plus with continuous mixing. Adjust the pH to 6.5-7.0 and heat to 70 deg C. Combine all ingredients in Phase B and heat to 70 deg C. Add Phase B to Phase A using a homogenizer and homogenise for 2 minutes. Cool down the batch to 40 deg C. Add Phase C with continuous mixing. Check the final pH.


Suppliers: 1. Solvay 2. Symrise 3. DSM Tackiness* Overall Skin Comfort SENSORY EVALUATION, n=15


SC-16-065 ■ Market Sample ■ Absorbency**


4.50 4.00 3.50 3.00 2.50 2.00 1.50 1.00 0.50 0.00


Wetness


43


Spreadability


July2021 PERSONAL CARE


Viscosity (cPs) Brookfield RVT, Spindle #6, 10rpm, 10mins


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