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44 SUN CARE


600 500 400 300 200 100 0


FORMULATION SC-19-150 : ANTIOXIDANT UV SHIELD FACIAL CARE GEL-CREAM – SPF 46


554


Phase A


288 18 2 68 3 Figure 6: Yield value vs polymer concentration.


Excellent electrolyte tolerance & stability Solvay’s multifunctional polymer provides best-in- class electrolyte tolerance. Additionally, it exhibits excellent stabilisation even in an emulsifier-free system. The viscosity profile of an emulsifier- free emulsion contains different levels of salt (PhenylbenzimidazoleSulfonate) is shown in Fig 5.


Powerful suspending ability Yield value is typically used as an indication of a polymer’s ability to suspend particles. The higher the yield value, the better the suspending ability. As shown in Figure 6, Acrylates/ Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer exhibits concentration-depended yield values which are enough to provide suspension to a variety of materials. This is one of the reasons why it provides excellent stability to oil-in-water systems, even without the presence of traditional emulsifiers. This also makes Solvay’s multifunctional polymer an outstanding agent for stabilising formulations containing pigments and inorganic UV filters (e.g. titanium dioxide, zinc oxide).


An answer to growing concerns over ingredient safety Although sunscreens are helpful in preventing skin cancer, some ingredients such as oxybenzone have recently generated concern regarding potential skin allergies and hormonal disruptions (source: jamanetwork.com). Plus chemicals like octinoxate and oxybenzone are being banned in some regions like Hawaii, due to their potential damaging effects on coral reefs. Even so, these concerns should not prevent


Ingredients/INCI 4 5 C B Ingredients/INCI


Deionized Water Rheomer SC-Plus1


Sodium Hydroxide (20% Solution) Isohexadecane


Ethylhexyl Cocoate


Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate2 Butyl Methoxydibenzoyl Methane3 Phenylbenzimidazoyl Sulfonate4


D ReGeN-oPhyt1 Preservative5


Suppliers: 1. Solvay 2. NeoHeliopan AV 3. NeoHeliopan 357 4. NeoHeliopan Hydro 5. Symocide PS, (2, 3, 4 & 5 from Symrise)


specialists from advising an adequate use of sunscreens due to the high risk of not using sunscreen on human health. This is especially the case when other studies suggest cases of photosensitivity and contact dermatitis are generally limited to a rare set of individuals, and the levels of oxybenzone necessary for estrogenic effects are nearly unattainable (source: praticaldermatology.com). However, brands can alleviate some of the


concern about controversial ingredients by using less of these components and adding SPF booster technologies to make sun care products extremely efficient even if they have a lower concentration of SPF chemicals. Thus, also helping alleviate some pressure on marine life. Finally, the risks of sun damage due to not


applying appropriate sunscreens are far greater than the potential risk of SPF chemicals and consumer awareness about these levels of risk is essential. This is why beauty brands and raw material suppliers are working together to propose the best options to attenuate consumer concerns about SPF ingredients and ensure future products have a lower impact on the environment whilst effectively protecting skin from UV damage.


Enabling a large range of innovative formulations with added benefits Today, consumers are asking more from chemistry as they desire a single product that combines different benefits. They no longer want to put layer upon layer, with sunscreen protection usually being the last and therefore easier to forget. Consumers are more inclined to buy products that offer


FORMULATION SC-16-042 : EVERYDAY SUNSCREEN SPRAY Phase


A B


Deionized Water Glycerin


Alkamuls® AC-S40 (PEG-40 Stearate) Mackester® GMS (Glyceryl Stearate) Mackaderm® OC (Ethylhexyl Cocoate) Mackaderm® LIA (Isoamyl Laurate) Cetearyl Alcohol


Neo Heliopan OS (Ethylhexyl Salicylate) Neo Heliopan AV(Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate) C


Rheomer® SC Plus (Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer) Sodium Hydroxide 20% solution


D Parsol TX 50 AB (C12-C15 Alkyl Benzoate, Titanium Dioxide, Polyglyceryl-2 E


Dipolyhydroxystearate, Silica,Dimethicone) Preservative


% w/w


q.s. To 100 3.0 4.0 2.0 4.0 3.0 0.5 5.0 5.0 1.2


q.s. 8.0 q.s.


Procedure: Combine ingredient in Phase A and heat to 70° C. Combine ingredient in Phase B and heat to 70° C. Add phase B to Phase A with continuous mixing. Add phase C with continuous mixing. Adjust the pH to 6.5-7.0. Add Phase D with mixing and make sure that it’s fully dispersed. Add Phase E. Check the final pH.


“multiple benefits in one solution” that contain their SPF protection. This is the reason why we see more and more anti-ageing serums with SPF, sunscreens with antioxidants, morning moisturisers with SPF, anti-pollutant creams with SPF, colour cosmetics with SPF, etc. The most popular examples of these combinations are BB and CC creams that do the full job of: moisturising, covering blemishes, improving skin properties and protecting from the sun.


From regular sunscreen protection ... Solvay’s multifunctional polymer is suitable for use in sun care products containing organic UV filters (oil and water soluble) and a combination of organic and inorganic UV filters. Formulation SC-16-036 : Mineral Sunblock


Cream: This sunblock formulation contains only mineral sunscreens in an oil-in-water emulsion base stabilised by Solvay’s multifunctional polymer, a rheology modifier with excellent suspending ability and salt tolerance. Formulation SC-16-042 : Everyday Sunscreen


Spray: This sprayable sunscreen contains organic and inorganic UV filters. Solvay’s multifunctional polymer provides stability to this low-viscosity emulsion while providing suspension of the particulates.


...to day wear sun protection products But it is also ideal for multifunctional or multi- benefit skin care products containing particulates (e.g. pigments) and electrolytes, such as BB or CC creams, day wear products with UV protection and skin care benefits, and low viscosity o/w formulations like milks or sprays for body, skin and sun care. Formulation SC-19-150 : Antioxidant UV


Shield Facial Care Gel-Cream – SPF 46: This emulsifier-free, light-feel gel cream can be used every day to provide protection against aggressive environmental conditions. In this formulation, Solvay’s multifunctional polymer functions as the SPF booster and emulsifier. No additional emulsion stabiliser is needed.


Conclusion Rheomer SC Plus, Solvay’s patented polymer, answers the call for efficient sun protection that can be developed into daily wear products and combined with other added benefits such as hydration, anti-ageing, anti-pollution. Rheomer SC Plus is the ideal solution for


formulators looking to embody the essential criteria of health, wellness, care and safety into their future product developments.


PERSONAL CARE July 2021 PC www.personalcaremagazine.com (30% solution) % w/w


To 100 6


q.s. 4 6 6 4


10


0.5 1.4


Brookfield Yield Value (dyne/cm2


)


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