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42 SUN CARE


Superior SPF booster performance for daily wear


Barry Zhang, Kheng Wei Lim, Caroline Mabille - Solvay Novecare


The global market of sun protection products is expected to grow at a CAGR of nearly 7% during 2020-2030 (source: Fact.MR). Asian countries are projected to lead this demand, with higher expenditure on sun protection products for hair and skin, while North America and Europe will not be far behind. This new market growth is mostly due to


greater media coverage and health education programmes that aim to improve consumer awareness regarding the dangers of too much sun. In the US, the use of sun protection has increased by 30.7% between 2000 and 2015. This is a result of greater awareness about the harmful effects of overexposure to the sun’s UV rays without protection. Consumers are beginning to change their habits and are demanding sun protection solutions for daily usage. However, high SPF formulas are usually


expensive and have sensory negatives which limit the penetration of high SPF products into daily wear applications. For consumers to agree to using more SPF in their products, formulations need to meet their criteria of a positive sensory experience: a light and non-sticky feeling. Furthermore, it is not just about SPF anymore


as the global sun care market demand develops toward “multi-purpose sun care products”. Consumers are interested in products that can also address other skin concerns such as anti- ageing, pollution and moisturising.


Optimising the efficiency of UV protection Ultraviolet (UV) radiation is part of the natural energy produced by the sun. On the electromagnetic spectrum, UV light has shorter wavelengths than visible light, so your eyes cannot see UV, but your skin can feel it. According to the Skin Cancer Association about 90% of nonmelanoma skin cancers are associated with


Oil/internal phase containing the


organic UV filters


WITH RHEOMER® SC-PLUS


Upon application on skin


■ No coalesence ■ Even distribution of oil soluble UV filter ■ SPF boost effect


Figure 2: Schematics of Rheomer® SC Plus mode of action. PERSONAL CARE July 2021 www.personalcaremagazine.com Rheomer® SC-Plus


Formulation SC-16-065 = Light Touch Day Protection Lotion SPF 46 Ingredients (INCI Name) Isohexadecane


% w/w 4.0


Ethylhexyl Cocoate


Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate Butyl Methoxydibenzoyl Methane


Phenylbenzimidazoyl Sulfonate (30% active) Rheomer® SC-Plus Water


Total UV Filters Active Calculated/Exp SPF In vivo SPF


Figure 1: In vivo studies.


exposure to ultraviolet radiation from the sun. However, while UVA and UVB rays differ


in how they affect the skin, both are harmful. The good news is that the danger posed by UV radiation can be greatly reduced through the use of protective measures like good sunscreen. According to the Skin Cancer Association,


people who use sunscreen with an SPF of 15 or higher daily show 24% less skin ageing than those who do not use sunscreen daily. The SPF number, or Sun Protection Factor, tells


you how long the sun’s UV radiation would take to redden your skin when using the product exactly as directed versus the amount of time without any sunscreen. Thanks to SPF 30, it would take you 30 times longer to burn than if you were not wearing sunscreen. An SPF 30 allows about 3% of UVB rays to hit your skin. An SPF of 50 allows about 2% of those rays through. That may seem like a small difference until you realise that the SPF 30 is allowing 50% more UV radiation onto your skin. As people become more aware about UV


damage and the benefits SPF can have in slowing down signs of ageing, the need for high- performance daily SPF protection is on the rise.


When dry


SPF booster for greater sun protection performance Rheomer® SC Plus (INCI: Acrylates/ Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer), developed by Solvay, is a patented polymer with elevated rheology benefits that also delivers excellent SPF boosting properties when formulated with organic, or a combination of organic and inorganic, UV filters. In vivo studies show that the use of


Rheomer SC Plus increases the level of SPF by as much as 2.5 times the estimated SPF value (+150%), thus enabling the formulation of high SPF products with a much lower dosage of sunscreen actives. Rheomer® SC Plus (now referred to as


‘Solvay’s multifunctional polymer’) performs exceptionally well in formulations containing oil-soluble and water-soluble chemical UV filters, where it also functions as the only emulsifier and emulsion stabiliser required. However, in systems containing chemical and physical UV filters, it is recommended to include a traditional emulsifier in addition to the polymer for optimum stability and performance.


When dry


6.0 6.0 4.0


10.0 6.0 q.s. 13 18


46 SUN PROTECTION FACTOR


50 45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0


46 155% 18 Calculated/Expected In-Vivo


WITH RHEOMER® SC-PLUS


(Classical system with std emulsifier)


Upon application on skin


■ No coalesence ■ Even distribution of oil soluble UV filter ■ SPF boost effect


SPF


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