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GLOBAL REGULATIONS With technology, formulators can


verify material origins while developing new products. This helps to validate claims of natural, vegan, and organic in products, speeding up regulatory checks. PLM solutions help manufacturers measure


the percentage of natural ingredients in a formula, making it possible to make natural claims based on the relative number of ingredients. Not only does this make labelling clear but helps to unwind the differing views based on market requirements.


Staying compliant while staying local Like the rise in natural ingredients, locally sourced materials have become increasingly attractive to consumers. Brands frequently reference and highlight local materials, calling attention to cultural associations and the company’s support of regional communities. Sourcing is a challenge in and of itself, especially when regionality is valued. Consistency must be maintained between


the product and the label information, assuring consumers the country of origin and ingredient names line up with marketing messages. Cosmetic companies can use PLM solutions


to store information on a product and its materials. Once this data is integrated into product development, it is easier for teams, including formulators and Regulatory Affairs, to verify natural and regional claims. Regionality attribution and country of origin can be added to ingredient sourcing. This data and intelligence shorten product lifecycle timelines and gives product managers a consistent database to rely on. Additionally, a good PLM solution


translates formulas and materials into clear labels, keeping consumers safe and preserving a truthful and consistent branding message.


The product still has to be proven safe It is not enough to know limits on regulated ingredients, you still need to demonstrate the safety of the overall product. Assessing the product as a whole requires


companies to outline specific details about the manufacturing process, the results of several testing, including certain toxicology considerations, such as the Systemic Exposure Dose and the Margin of Safety for each ingredient. These steps exist to recognise different


exposure levels based on usage. A hairdresser, for example, comes into contact with shampoos and other cosmetic products at a much greater frequency than the average consumer. To keep these users safe, manufacturers must


calculate a large amount of information based on varying exposures. Oftentimes this results in a large dossier for each product, listing the different exposure routes and tests done on the product. The Product Information File (PIF) is one


of the most important legal requirements for bringing a cosmetic product to the European market. When a cosmetic product is placed on the EU market, the responsible person shall keep a Product Information File that must be available on request. The PIF offers visibility into product


www.personalcaremagazine.com July 2021 PERSONAL CARE Failing to include an accurate ingredient


statement on the label will prevent the product from being market ready. A PLM system can evaluate formulas and


generate an accurate INCI statement, adjusted for the target market. By retrieving all of this information and correctly listing it, cosmetic companies gain assurance that their products are accurately representing themselves in different markets.


details, including manufacturing process and ingredients. Certain PLM systems have the ability to


automatically perform exposure calculations and generate compliance documentation. Not only does this improve review efficiencies, it reduces human error and gives peace of mind. Moreover, maintaining updated dossiers for each product placed on a specific market can be a very time- consuming activity. Technology simply speeds up and streamlines these recurring tasks.


Clearly labelling your product is the name of the game Having reviewed regional requirements, mapped ingredients to different regulators, evaluated limits, benchmarked against industry’s standards, and performed analysis on the final product, it is still possible to be non-compliant due to one major hurdle—labelling. You probably rely on the INCI, or the


International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, to identify ingredients. Unfortunately, not all INCI names have universal recognition. As an example, the aforementioned “water”,


the most common ingredient in cosmetics, is listed differently depending on region: ■ In the United States, it is simply “water”. ■ In the EU, it is “aqua”. ■ In Canada, it presents as “eau/ water”, which is then transliterated for Japan and China.


The answers can be found in technology The lack of consensus across regions means regulation will always be a sore spot for cosmetic companies, but having the right tools makes it easier. Cosmetic companies can use technology


to store information on a product and its materials. Once this data is integrated into product development, it is easier for teams, including Formulators and Regulatory Affairs, to verify a variety of claims, including natural and regionality. PLM systems make it possible to manage


ingredient limits in a formula for a target market, facilitating development strategies and compliance steps. Beauty manufacturers seek any


advantage they can to stand out in competitive markets. Local and natural ingredients continue to be popular with both formulators and consumers. Technology assures that everyone is protected Technology can be a single source of truth. This helps carve through the confusion around cosmetics and their ingredients, speeds up time to market, and helps companies create safe products with clear, transparent labels.


ABOUT THE AUTHOR


Dr. Zaffino is a Chemist who helps personal care and beauty companies find digital solutions to streamline their innovation processes.


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PC


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