SKIN CARE A 1.3 1.2 1.1 1.0 0.9 0.8 Placebo GO-VC B A 1.1 1.0 0.9 0.9 0.8 0.7 Placebo GO-VC
Figure 4: Effect of 2-O-glyceryl-3-O-octyl ascorbate (GO-VC) on the skin surface water content (SWC) and the trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL). (A) SWC, (B) TEWL.
mechanism revealed that the skin-lightening mechanism of conventional AsA derivatives such as AsA and AP is a tyrosinase enzyme activity-inhibitory effect, whereas GO-VC has been confirmed to suppress the intracellular transport of melanosomes which is a site for melanin synthesis in melanocytes. Therefore, melanosomes accumulate in melanocytes treated with GO-VC, and finally autophagy is activated, and melanosomes are degraded. In other words, GO-VC is considered to exert a skin-lightening effect by an action mechanism different from that of conventional AsA derivatives.
Epidermal regeneration-enhancing effect The epidermal regeneration-enhancing effect leads to the improvement of skin problems such as dryness, acne, wrinkles, and pigmentation. One of the epidermal regeneration-enhancing effects is to promote epidermal turnover, that is, to promote epidermal keratinocyte-proliferation and differentiation into corneocytes. In addition, stimulating the epidermal stem cells that produce new epidermal keratinocytes can be one of the epidermal regeneration-enhancing effects. Therefore, in order to elucidate the epidermal regeneration promoting-enhancing effects of GO-VC, the effects of GO-VC on epidermal turnover and epidermal stem cells were examined. Firstly, in order to examine the effect
of GO-VC on epidermal turnover, we examined the cell area of corneocytes after applying GO-VC to the skin. The cell area of corneocytes is known to show a negative correlation with the turnover rate, and when the cell area of corneocytes becomes smaller, it means that the epidermal turnover rate has increased. As a result, when GO-VC was applied to the skin for two weeks and the area of corneocytes was measured, the area of corneocytes decreased significantly. In other words, GO-VC could promote epidermal
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turnover rate. GO-VC also promoted epidermal keratinocyte-proliferation in a concentration- dependent manner, and significantly increased the gene expression levels of epidermal differentiation markers such as filaggrin and involucrin. Therefore, GO-VC could promote epidermal keratinocyte- proliferation and differentiation into corneocytes, that is, epidermal turnover, and promote epidermal regeneration. Then, by what kind of mechanism does GO-
VC promote epidermal turnover? In this study, we focused on a particular keratin, which is known to be involved in cell proliferation and wound healing. Therefore, we investigated whether GO-VC enhances the expression level of a particular keratin. As a result, GO-VC significantly increased the gene expression level of a particular keratin. Therefore, GO-VC could promote epidermal turnover through the upregulation of a particular keratin expression. Then, we examined the effect of GO-VC on
epidermal stem cells. In this study, we focused on a particular collagen, which is known to be important for the maintenance of epidermal stem cells. Furthermore, a component that enhances the expression of a particular collagen is known to have a skin regeneration- enhancing effect. Therefore, we investigated whether GO-VC enhances the expression level of a particular collagen. As a result, GO-VC significantly increased the gene expression level of a particular collagen. Therefore, GO-VC could stimulate epidermal stem cells through upregulation of a particular collagen and promote epidermal regeneration. To summarise the above, epidermal
regeneration-enhancing effects of GO-VC were thought to promote epidermal turnover through the upregulation of a particular keratin and to stimulate epidermal stem cells through the upregulation of a particular collagen. In other words, one of the action mechanisms of the improvement effect of GO-VC on skin troubles such as pigmentation, wrinkles, and
acne is to enhance the regeneration of the epidermis.
Conclusion In conclusion, GO-VC has been confirmed to show a continuous antioxidant effect, chlorine-removing effect, antibacterial / antiviral effects, epidermal barrier function- reinforcing effect, epidermal regeneration- enhancing effect, anti-acne effect, anti- wrinkle effect and skin-lightening effect. Therefore, GO-VC has a wide variety of skin physiological effects, and formulating GO-VC into a preparation can add various functions. For example, it is possible to add an antibacterial / antiviral effect and a skin barrier function enhancing effect by adding GO-VC to a disinfectant preparation such as an alcohol-based hand sanitiser, and the addition of GO-VC to cleansing, shampoos, and conditioners can add a function to prevent damage to the skin and hair due to chlorine contained in tap water. Furthermore, formulating GO-VC into hand cream can add antibacterial / antiviral effects and functions to strengthen the skin barrier function, and it is ideal for the care of rough skin after alcohol disinfection. In addition, formulating GO-VC into skin care products such as lotion and beauty essence can enhance the anti-ageing effect and add the function of the prevention of rough skin with masks. Therefore, GO- VC can be said to be an epoch-making AsA derivative that can be easily blended into various preparations and can add various skin physiological effects to the preparations.
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Note: ITO’s GO-VC ingredient received a Silver Award at the 2021 CITE Japan event.
References 1 Choi MC, Maibach HI. Role of Ceramides in Barrier Function of Healthy and Diseased Skin. Am. J Clin Dermatol 2005; 6: 215-23.
July 2021 PERSONAL CARE
Relative SWC
Relative TEWL
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