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AFRICA FOCUS


TABLE 2: BENEFITS AND APPLICATIONS. Benefits/Claims


Effective in the treatment of oily and impure skin.


Provides a progressive brightening effect for a more uniform complexion


Reduces skin pigmentation and color irregularities such as age spots , revealing smoother, brighter, more supple skin with fewer irregularities


Improving the appearance of sun damaged skin and fighting skin ageing


Enhancing performance of certain topical over-the-counter , drugs or quasi-drugs and prescription products


Today several grades of azelaic acid are


available, some of them are derived from animal sources some other from vegetable sources. Azeco Cosmeceuticals has developed and placed on the market an ultra-pure, micronised cosmetic-grade of azelaic acid with vegetable origin, COSMOS approved. Table 1 shows the main characteristics of this


grade of azelaic acid. This grade of azelaic acid is an ideal


active ingredient for a variety of personal care products (also COSMOS / ECOCERT approved) intended for African people with dark skin tone, providing all together important benefits that these class of consumers desire. Table 2 offers a brief overview.


An example of finished skin care product for an healthy African skin (for men and women) To complete the proposal for the skin care application for African people with dark skin


Phase A


INCI Name Aqua


Propanediol


Heptyl glucoside Azelaic acid


B Xylityl sesquicaprylate Tocopheryl Acetate C D Sodium


Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate Aqua


Dimethyl Isosorbide (and) Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate


Phenoxyethanol Parfum


37


Applications


Moisturising skin creams, serum and lotions, cleansers and toners. Men’s skin care products.


Moisturising skin creams, serum and lotions, cleansers and toners. Men’s skin care products.


Creams, serums, lotions, cleansers,and toners designed to reduce the signs of ageing. Skin peeling products. Men’s skin care products (also after-shaving products).


Moisturising skin creams, serum and lotions, Men’s skin care products.


Acne treatment combinations, skin lightening combinations, sunscreen combinations. Men’s skin care products.


tone, Azeco Cosmeceuticals has developed some finished formulas based on 10% of its azelaic acid (micronised, then easy to be formulated) to be used daily (once or twice a day) for African skin face to brighten dark spots, and even skin tone. As an example we report here the data relative to a non- comedogenic and hypoallergenic serum able to act against hyperpigmentation caused by breakouts. While it is targeted towards all skin types, those with oily and acne-prone skin may find the best results because it is oil free. Consistently applied will help to keep breakouts at bay and decongest clogged pores. Formulation 1 contains the formulation,


while just after the tips on how prepare an homogeneous gel are reported.


Conclusion Azelaic acid, mainly if 100% bio-based and palm oil free, obtained by a sustainable


FORMULATION 1: OIL-FREE SERUM FOR SKIN WITH DISORDERS (SKIN PRONE TO ACNE) - TRIPLE ACTION: ANTI-IMPERFECTIONS, ANTI-RESIDUAL MARKS, ANTI-AGING.


% by weight 10.0


10.0 10.0 10.0


0.5 0.05


1.00 57.9 0.10 0.30


0.15


Function Solvent


Humectant Emulsifier


Active Ingredient Antimicrobial and


Moisturizing Agent. Antioxidant, Antiaging agent


Rheology Modifier Solvent


Anti-ageing agent Preservative


Fragrance


Procedure: In a melter, add all the ingredients of Phase A, heat to 60°C and mix until homogeneous: a yellowish transparent fluid gel is obtained. Cool to T <30°C. Once phase A has cooled, add and mix Xylityl sesquicaprylate and Tocopheryl Acetate . Indicative time 10 min, until transparency. Prepare Phase C, dispersing Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate in water. Add Phase C to the mixture of Phase A and B, while stirring. Continue until a homogeneous gel is formed. Add the ingredients of Phase D, flush, possibly only gentle mixing and possibly with a very low force turbine, to avoid incorporating air. A whitish-yellowish gel is obtained.


www.personalcaremagazine.com


process from a definite vegetable source (sunflower oil) is the perfect choice for high- performing (multi-action) and sustainable cosmetic solutions for the skin of African people. Using only one active, it is possible to


obtain a whole series of positive actions on the skin of African people with dark skin. In fact, topical azelaic acid, having anti-


inflammatory and antibacterial properties, in addition to comedolytic action and competitive inhibition of tyrosinase, an enzyme involved in the conversion of tyrosine to melanin, may effectively reduce epidermal hyperkeratinisation, one of the most common diseases of the skin of black African people.


PC


References 1. Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products, Cosmetic Science and Technology Series, Vol. 30, 2006


2. Nazzaro-Porro M, Passi S, Morpurgo G, Breathnach A. (1979a) Identification of tyrosinase inhibitors in cultures ai Pityrosporum and their melanocytotoxic effect. In: Pigment cell 4: Biologic basis of pigmemation (Ed. By S.N.Klaus), p. 234. S. Karger, Basel.


3. Nazzaro-Porro M, Passi S, Balus S, Breathnach A, Martin B, Morpurgo G. Effect of dicarboxylic acids on lentigo maligna. Journal of Investigative Dermatology 1979: 72: 296.


4. Shin JW, Park KC. Current clinical use of depigmenting agents. Dermatol Sin. 2014; 32: 205–210.


5. Lowe NJ, Rizk D, Grimes P, Billips M, Pincus S. Azelaic acid 20% cream in the treatment of facial hyperpigmentation in darker-skinned patients. Clin. Ther. 1998; 20: 945–959.


6. Webster G. Combination azelaic acid therapy for acne vulgaris. J. Am. Acad. Dermatol. 2000; 43, S47–S50.


7. Draelos Z. Multiple mechanisms of action of azelaic acid: New findings. J. Am. Acad. Dermatol. 2009; 60, AB86.


8. Baliña LM, Graupe K. Int. J. Dermatol. 1991 Dec; 30(12):893-5.


9. Graupe K, Cunliffe WJ, Gollnick HP, et al. Efficacy and safety of topical azelaic acid (20 percent cream): an overview of results from European clinical trials and experimental reports. Cutis 1996; 57:20–35.


July 2021 PERSONAL CARE


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