FORMULATIONS
89
Puricolor Blue (0.1%) Blue 1
7 0.13
Procedure: Phase A: Place under stirring. Phase B: Pre-mix then add it to phase A and stir for 15 minutes until homogeneous. Phase C: Stir for 5 minutes then add it to phase AB and homogenize. Phase D : Stir until dissolved then add it to phase ABC and homogenize. Phase E: Stir until dissolved then add it to phase ABCD and homogenize. Phase F: Pre-mix then add it to phase ABCDE and homogenize. Adjust pH to 5,5-6,0.
Suppliers: 1. Safic-Alcan 2. Minasolve 3. Clariant 4. Sozio 5. Ichimaru Pharcos 6. Corum 7. Sudarshan
EO Ginger
Zingiber Officinale Root Extract
0.10
Procedure: Stir the phase A and heat to 85°C. Stir the phase B and heat to 85°C. At 85°C, at 950rpm slowly introduce phase A into phase B and cool. At 75°C, introduce phases C and D and pour the product at 70°C in suitable moulds to allow it to cool.
LIPOTRUE ORGANIZING SKINTROPY, CREAM WITH 3% POPTIDETM
KOSTER KEUNEN A-HA MOMENT NIGHT CREAM
PHASE INGREDIENTS
A Deionized Water Reisita Natural Optiphen Glycerin
KOH 10% Solution B Kostol NatureMuls
INCI NAME Aqua
Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch
Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol Glycerin
Potassium Hydroxide
Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate
Sustainable Beeswax Beeswax Kester Wax K-56 Olive Squalane Grapeseed Oil Purolan IHD5
C HA Powder
Cetyl Stearate Squalane
Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil Isohexadecane
Sodium Hyaluronate 1
1 1
4 4 5 6
1/23-6577/10005/128-22 SPLR % W/W
2 3
68.4 4.0 1.0
2.0 0.4
4.0
4.0 4.0 3.0 3.0 6.0 0.2
Procedure: Combine Phase A ingredients one at a time, then heat to 80 – 85°C. Combine Phase B ingredients and heat to 80 – 85°C. Once both Phases are at temperature, add Phase B to Phase A and increase mixing speed. When emulsion is smooth, cool to under 70°C. Slowly sprinkle in Phase C. Continue cooling to 45°C or under and pour / pump into appropriate containers. Properties: Stability: Three months at 45 °C, three months at room temperature, three freeze/thaw cycles.
Suppliers: 1. Koster Keunen, Inc. 2. Agrana 3. Brenntag Specialties 4. Vantage 5. Lanxess 6. Tri-K.
PHASE INGREDIENTS/ INCI NAME A Water (Aqua) Disodium EDTA
Magnesium Sulfate Glycerin
B Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Isononyl/Isononanoate
Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate Triethyl Citrate Caprylyl Glycol Benzoic Acid
Synthetic Beeswax C Nylon-12 D Dimethicone Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer E PoptideTM
LPT118 % W/W
58.420 0.150 1.500 2.500 8.000 15.000 3.000 0.075 0.900 0.455 3.000 2.000 1.700 0.300 3
Procedure: Mix the components of phase A with stirring until everything is completely dissolved. Add ingredients from phase B, homogenize until fully dispersed. Add the components of phase C with stirring until fully dispersed. Add phase D, homogenize until fully dispersed. Add phase E. Homogenize for 3-5 minutes for full emulsification. Adjust pH to 5-5.5.
MIBELLE BIOCHEMISTRY
FEEL-GOOD BUTTER-IN-GEL FOR FACE WITH TIMOOD™ PHASE INGREDIENTS
INCI NAME A Solvent Geogard Ultra ® LABORATOIRES EXPANSCIENCE
WAKE-UP ! PHASE INGREDIENTS
A Deionized Water Propanediol Sensiva SC50
Sodium Chloride MLB Compritol 888
B Cupuacu Butter Avocado Oil DUB 810 C
Ozokerite Wax Tocomix L70 IP Deionized Water
C Effipulp® Number 6
D EO Lemon
INCI NAME Water
Propanediol, Water
Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopherol Sodium Chloride
Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Coco-Caprylate/ Caprate, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Sorbitan Isostearate
Glyceryl Behenate
Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter Persea Gratissima Oil Coco Caprylate/Caprate Ozokerite
Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Water
Persea Gratissima Fruit Extract, Maltodextrin
Propanediol, Water, Persea Gratissima Fruit Extract
Citrus Limon Peel Oil
www.personalcaremagazine.com
% W/W 40.25 8.00 0.20 0.50
10.00
8.00 5.00 8.00 5.00
10.00 0.10 1.00 0.60
3.00 0.25
B TiMOODTM C pH regulator D Acticire MB Shea Butter E Vitamin E 99.5 % Aqua/Water Gluconolactone (and) Sodium Benzoate
Zanthoxylum Alatum Fruit Extract (and) Glycerin (and) Pentylene Glycol (and) Aqua/Water
Prestige Bright Bronze Mica (and) Iron Oxides Sodium Hydroxide
Jojoba Esters (and) Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax (and) Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax (and) Polyglycerin-3
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter
Mango Kernel Butter Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter Tocopherol Fragrance
True Sicilian Garden F Refined Glycerin
Xanthan Gum FNCSP-PC
Glycerin Xanthan Gum
SPLR % W/W ad 100 1.5
2.0
3 0.02 q.s.
1 6.0 2
2.0 2.0 0.2 0.5
7.0 1.2
Procedure: Add phase A to a beaker and stir until everything is solved. Add phase B under agitation to phase A. Adjust pH to 5.0 – 5.5. Heat phase D in a separate beaker until everything is melted and then add phase E to D. Add phase D/E directly (still hot) to phase A/B/C under agitation (400rpm with a propeller stirrer), stir briefly until white flakes have formed. Make a premix of phase F and add it directly to the product. Stir slowly and not too strongly. The flakes should remain, and no emulsion should form. Only the water is thickened and made into a gel.
Suppliers: 1. Gattefossé 2. Essencia AG 3. Sudarshan
February 2025 PERSONAL CARE
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