30 BODY CARE
formulation, which can influence the choice of active ingredients and their dosage. Sticks and creams require active ingredients
that are compatible with solid or semi-solid bases, often wax or emollient based. Furthermore, skin safety is a leading factor
for the ingredients selection, since some ingredients may irritate the skin when applied at high doses in products with high persistence (creams, sticks) compared to sprays or aerosols, which dry out more quickly. Additional challenges are linked to the
sensory perception (sprays must evaporate quickly without leaving residue, which can significantly limit the amount of usable actives). Deodorizing and skin odour adsorption
actives (zeolites, some clays and starch based powders) are critical to be used in aerosol products given the lack of their uniformity in suspension and dispersion phase, gravity or agglomeration, which can cause sedimentation or clogging of the dispenser (compromising the effectiveness of the end product), as well as the sensory perception (adsorbent powders can leave visible residue or an unpleasant dry feeling on the skin, which can be especially noticeable in spray products). In emulsion systems, stability is the main
concern due to deodorizing ingredients tendency to interact with the emulsifiers, leading to final separation (typically occurring with some zeolites or bicarbonates). Emulsions require a careful choice of
emulsifiers and stabilizers to incorporate solid actives without compromising the texture or appearance of the product. pH compatibility (for skin microbiota
preservation) and sensory issues (the presence of some adsorbent particles can give a grainy or sticky texture, which is unpleasant for consumers) are other frequent challenges. Finally, from an overall functional perspective
many deodorizing actives show reduced efficiency in extreme conditions (most of them work best in dry environments; heavy sweat can reduce their ability to neutralize odours).
HAP complex benefits The HAP complex stands out as a multifunctional and effective ingredient, capable of transversally responding to the aforementioned requirements, specifically with its formulation inclusion versatility, its unique sensory profile - especially its ‘invisible’ nature, which makes it peculiar in the context of sweat adsorbent actives - and its effectiveness, regardless of the application format (ranging from sprays, propellent-based aerosol up to oily sticks, pastes and anhydrous systems). It is available in various forms - both in
30% concentrated water solution and as pure powder - through which it can be integrated into roll-on and spray emulsion forms, in aerosol or emulsion for light and uniform protection, in richer creams for targeted application leading to greater hydration and dermocompatibility and oily stick/paste based forms for more practical and compact waterless solutions. In Tables 1-5, various formulation system proposals with the HAP complex are shown.
PERSONAL CARE February 2025
TABLE 1: ROLL-ON DEODORANT (O/W HYPERFLUID EMULSION)
Phase 1
2 3 4 5 6
7 8
9 INCI
Olivoil Glutamate Emulsifier (INCI: sodium olivoyl glutamate, cetearyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate)
Coco caprylate/caprate Dicaprylyl carbonate Tocopheryl acetate Aqua
Panthenol
Aqua, Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate
Xanthan gum. Sclerotium gum Chondrus crispus extract
10 Deohap Dry 11
(water suspension @30%)
Preservatives, parfum and pH regulator
TABLE 2: SPRAY EMULSION Phase
INCI 1 2
Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate
Cetearyl Alcohol
3 Oleyl Erucate 4 Decyl Cocoate 5 6
8 9
Stearyl Heptanoate Cetyl Ricinoleate
7 Glyceryl Caprylate Zinc Ricinoleate
Polyglyceryl-3 Caprylate 10
Sodium Caproyl, Lauroyl Lactylate (and) Triethyl Citrate (and) Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Oil
11 Deohap Dry Powder 12 Aqua
13 Glycerin
14 Xanthan Gum 15 Gellan Gum
16
Sodium Levulinate, Sodium Anisate, Glycerin, Aqua
17 Perfume w/w (%) 1 2.0
2.0 4.5 0.2
to 100.0 0.5
0.2 0.4
0.25 20.0 as
needed
2 3
TABLE 3: OILY STICK Phase
INCI
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter
Candelila Wax Lauryl Lactyl Lactate
4 Maranta Arundinacea 5 Deohap Dry Powder
Root Powder
6 7 8 9
Lavandula angustifolia Oil Copaifera officinalis Oil Xylityl Sesquicaprylate Tocopherol
10 Aqua
11 Aqua & Pentasodium 12
Pentetate & Silver
Saccharomyces Ferment (Deoplex)
13 Aloe barbadensis Powder w/w (%)
3.0 0.2
3.0 4.0 1.0
0.5 0.5 2.0 2.0
2.0 3.0
71.06 3.0 0.2
0.04 3.5 1.0
Effectiveness evaluation The efficacy of the HAP complex was assessed through in vivo and in vitro tests.
In vitro test The odour adsorption quantification was assessed through an advanced and sophisticated gaseous-phase experimental model. This model enabled the measurement of ingredient’s adsorption capacity for ammonia- based volatile substances, allowing for a comparison with other adsorbent materials. Briefly, a gaseous mixture containing
ammonia was passed through the sample (under conditions similar to physiological ones) and subsequently analyzed by FT-IR spectroscopy to determine its concentration. The decrease in signal intensity over time provided a measure of ammonia adsorption by each sample. Ammonia concentrations ranging from 80 to 400 ppm were tested. Sweat contains
TABLE 4: OILY PASTE Phase 1
INCI Isoamyl cocoate
3 4 5
2 Myristyl Myristate Cetyl ricinoleate Zinc ricinoleate
Polyglyceryl-3 caprylate 6 8
Sodium caproyl/lauroyl lactylate, triethyl citrate, salvia officinalis (sage) oil
7 Glyceryl caprylate Cera alba
9 Mica (mica m) 10 Kaolin Starch
11 12 Cellulose 13
Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/ Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate; Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride; Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate; Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate
14 Parfum
15 Deohap Dry Powder 16
17
Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil
Silica, Titanium Dioxide, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Iron Oxide, Ferric Ferrocyanide, Tin Oxide
w/w (%) 23.8 20.0
18.0 16.0 8.0
0.8 0.8 1.0
0.4 1.0
0.2 8.0
2.0
w/w (%) 19.0 7.0 7.0 2.0 2.0
2.0
0.5 5.0 6.0
20.0 20.0 1.0
2.5 1.0
3.0 1.0
1.0
ammonia, along with other compounds like lactate and urea, which are metabolized by bacteria to produce typical body odours. To further assess the HAP complex’s deodorizing efficiency, we tested its adsorption capacity for lactate and urea using an in vitro liquid experimental model based on artificial sweat. This model was developed in collaboration
with the Italian National Research Council. Each sample was mixed with a solution of artificial sweat containing sodium lactate and urea. After centrifugation, the collected powder was analyzed by FT-IR to quantify the amount of lactate and urea adsorbed by each material.
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