48 SUSTAINABILITY
in the cosmetics industry, but consumer understanding of those terms is inconsistent. Our industry categorises green cosmetics as
products that use natural ingredients produced from renewable raw materials, rather than petrochemically derived ingredients sourced from non-renewable, petrochemical resources. Sustainable products are those that are responsibly sourced to benefit the environment, society and the economy over their entire lifecycle, from cradle to grave. Sustainable finished products are made
with natural, eco-friendly and often organic materials that are ethically sourced and packaged in such a way as to reduce waste. Other ways in which brands can off-set
their carbon footprint or greenhouse emissions include installing solar panels to provide green energy while the sun shines. The modern consumer is now making more eco-conscious decisions about the brands they purchase based on their green credentials.
Upcycling In the cosmetics industry, consumers desire to be greener has translated into a surge in demand for more sustainable, traceable, environmentally friendly, biodegradable, recyclable and upcycled products. Consumers are also becoming more aware that it is not just the packaging that causes an impact on the environment but the overall formulation and are demanding full life-cycle analysis for the products they buy. Most of the marketing data published clearly
identifies that Generation Z are the most aware of climate change and are the demographic most motivated to change. Brand identity and green credentials rank highest for this group who want zero waste beauty; they are, of course, the main age group that sustainable and green brands are targeting. There are an increasing number of materials
for formulators to pick from when it comes to upcycled raw materials, such as fruit waters from the waste water of fruit juice, which enable water-free formulations to be created and therefore saving precious water.
Cutting out waste Waste of any kind is a major concern in today’s society, which very much adopts a throw-away lifestyle, from fashion to décor and food. Sadly, common sense is very much
undervalued in today’s world, where we blindly follow instructions from our satellite navigation systems or obsess over best before dates on food. In more traditional times where food
was less abundant and more expensive, consumers were taught to smell and look at the appearance of food before deciding whether it was edible or not. This results in tonnes of waste produce every year from the supermarkets that live by ‘best before’ dates; produce not sold on the marked down aisle is often sent to landfill. Many manufacturers within the cosmetics
industry are now adopting a ‘zero waste’ philosophy. Where they take waste materials, useless, or unwanted products and transform them into new materials or products of better quality or for better use. For example, the pulp from the super fruit,
maracuja is used to make around 900,000 tonnes a year of fruit juice. The seeds make up around 7% of the fruit and are considered waste. These seeds can be pressed to make new products for the cosmetics industry.
Maracuja virgin oil is produced directly
from the pressing of the seeds to produce a golden, dry feeling oil with the pleasant aroma of passionfruit. Extraction of the seeds can be used to create actives targeted for anti- pollution and detoxification. The molecular distillation of the oil creates
an oily active for the repairing, remodelling and soothing of the skin and lips. In Peru, non-exportable avocados are used to create a number of ingredients, ensuring nothing goes to waste. Avocado cake can be used to produce an anti-ageing peptide, as well as actives to minimise dark circles and eye bags. Avocado powder is used as a natural exfoliant and the oil is refined to produce a variety of oils as well as an active for problematic skin. Lastly, the biproducts from white lupin, which is used in the food industry due to its richness in proteins and the fact it is gluten free, are used to produce three active ingredients. The shells are extracted to produce a skin remodelling, firming and anti- ageing actives. The cold pressed oil for blue light, UV and
IR protection, and lastly the lupin flour can be used to produce a powerful chronoageing active ingredient.
Conclusion It is fair to say that lifestyle cosmetics are here to stay, and that ‘green washing’ will not be tolerated any more. Consumers, especially Generation Z, are looking for transparent, open brands who are truthful to the very core. These sustainable, green, traceable, upcycled and respectful to the environment brands are thriving. As an industry, we can help to preserve
and protect the beauty of our planet for future generations to come. The most important thing is that change is finally happening but is it too little too late? Only time will tell!
PERSONAL CARE February 2025 PC
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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