EMULSIFIERS
Dual emulsifier and encapsulation system
Aurélie Trunet, Amandine Werle, Joan Attia – Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant
The cosmetics industry is advancing at a rapid pace, presenting formulators with increasingly complex challenges. Today’s consumers seek natural ingredients that are gentle, yet just as luxurious on the skin as synthetic alternatives. They desire beauty products that elevate their sense of wellbeing - a subjective experience - while simultaneously expecting scientific validation of a product’s efficacy. Additionally, while innovation is desirable, many consumers are also looking back to time-honoured, natural ingredients with a history of proven benefits. In recognition of these many demands,
Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant has spent the last five years developing a solution that both simplifies the formulator’s task and meets these multifaceted expectations. The result is a groundbreaking, surfactant-
free emulsifier with dual activity: Pickmulse™. Designed to harmonize performance with natural origins, this innovation promises to be a game-changer in cosmetic formulations.
From an ancient grain to cutting- edge cosmetics: the quinoa revolution Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant has tapped into ancient wisdom in their search for this new emulsifier. For centuries, quinoa - known as the ‘mother grain’ of the Incas - has been revered for its nutritional richness due to its high content of protein, fibre, and other essential nutrients. More recently, this tiny seed has gained
global recognition as a symbol of health and wellness. Additionally, quinoa is known for its resilience and adaptability, as it thrives in extreme environments in South America. These qualities can in turn be used in cosmetics to create products that increase skin resilience and protect against environmental stresses. The journey from grain to game-changing
ingredient begins in the high altitudes of Bolivia, where quinoa is grown in organic conditions, ensuring that the ingredient meets the highest environmental standards. Through a partnership with local farmers, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant promotes sustainable agricultural practices, supporting both the local economy and the preservation of Andean grain biodiversity. The starch found in quinoa is much like the
starches from other plants, such as potatoes and corn, which have been used in the cosmetic industry for decades. These ingredients
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traditionally play the role of a skin feel agent, oil absorber, and mattifying agent. Yet quinoa starch offers something more, thanks to its small, uniform particles that range from 1 to 3 µm in diameter. Due to this small particle size, quinoa
starch can be transformed into Quinoa Starch Patented Powder (QSPP) using a series of precise processes. This powder is composed of very small and regularly sized amphiphilic particles that are especially ideal for the creation of Pickering emulsions, a type of surfactant-free, highly stable formulation. Additionally, the unique swelling properties
of quinoa starch enable the structural transformation of these particles under warm conditions, allowing the creation of core-shell microcapsules around lipophilic molecules. This makes QSPP an innovative emulsifier with dual functionality.
Creating luxurious, skin-friendly textures QSPP leverages the power of solid particles to stabilize emulsions, offering a surfactant-free
alternative to traditional emulsifiers. In Pickering emulsions, tiny solid particles are adsorbed at oil-water interfaces, creating a stable barrier that prevents droplet coalescence. This contrasts with traditional emulsifiers, which rely on surfactant molecules to lower the surface tension between oil and water, allowing them to mix. The absence of surfactants in Pickering emulsions makes these products not only gentler on the skin, but also more microbiota- friendly. This offers a significant advantage in today’s beauty market, where consumers are increasingly seeking products that support the natural balance of the skin microbiome. By avoiding surfactants, Pickering emulsifiers
like QSPP reduce the risk of disrupting the skin’s natural protective barrier, making them an ideal choice for maintaining healthy, balanced skin. Furthermore, the micrometric particles of QSPP remain on the skin’s surface, forming an invisible protective layer that strengthens the skin barrier. In addition, quinoa’s minimal allergenic profile makes QSPP a suitable ingredient for a broad range of skincare products aimed at consumers with sensitive skin.
February 2025 PERSONAL CARE
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