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COVER STORY: SILAB ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE


Phytotensors: the heart of Silab expertise PERSONAL CARE


With more than 30 years of expertise, SILAB is a major player in the development of natural tensors of plant origin (or phytotensors). The force of its innovation is based on its unique capacity to combine for each generation of phytotensors, a new technology and scientifically proven performance in terms of efficacy, sensoriality, formulability and long- lasting effects (figure 1).


The lifting capacity of plant proteins TENSINE® was SILAB’s first generation of plant tensors launched on the global cosmetics market. It was obtained using a highly selective extraction and purification technology that enhanced the intrinsic viscoelastic properties of wheat proteins. Their tertiary structure was maintained, thereby ensuring the formation of a film that was both resistant and elastic. This product marks the starting point of SILAB’s expertise in the field of phytotensors.


Biopolymerization to potentiate the tensor effect of plant proteins In the early 2000s, SILAB developed POLYLIFT®, combined with a patented a new technology: the biopolymerization of plant proteins. The value of this technology is that it boosts the tensor and lifting effect of monomers at the same time as retaining their high solubility in aqueous media and thus their ease of formulation. The biopolymerization of proteins in fact increases their hydrophobic character, thereby extending interactions between the biopolymers obtained and cutaneous lipids to intensify the tensor effect. Obtained from sweet almond proteins, POLYLIFT® forms a microrelief-smoothing film on the surface of the skin to provide an immediate anti-wrinkle effect. The skin appears more tonic, more radiant and younger.


Natural polysaccharides used for phytotensors SILAB then decided to use the well-known


February 2025 Exclusive digital-only content GLOBAL INGREDIENTS ● FORMULATION ● MANUFACTURE


Countering ‘Ozempic face’ with active ingredients


Natural ingredients: why nature knows best


film-forming properties of molecular structures little used beforehand in phytotensors: sugars, also called polysaccharides. OSILIFT® is a purified fraction of natural oat polysaccharides obtained using several selective, mild and non-denaturing fractionation and purification steps. The large number of hydroxyl functions on sugars on these polysaccharide chains creates hydrogen bonds with lipids of the stratum corneum. OSILIFT® is a lifting film providing sensorial (immediate tensor result), instrumental (long-term anti-wrinkle action) and aesthetic (increased make-up long-lasting effect) cosmetic benefits.


When biopolymerization is applied to natural polysaccharides SILAB transposed its experience in the biopolymerization of proteins to sugar monomers. Enzymatic hydrolysis and the size


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and structure of the resulting monomers, as well as the extent of subsequent cross-linking of polymers were fully adapted to the structure of polysaccharides. The synthesis of sugar biopolymers was behind the development of INSTENSYL®, underlining the launch of the 4th


generation


of SILAB’s natural phytotensors. Obtained from cassava (manioc), INSTENSYL® is a cross-linked network of polysaccharides with elevated viscoelastic properties. It rapidly forms a resistant, cohesive and highly flexible film on the surface of the skin. The smoothing anti-wrinkle action is immediate and long- lasting.


Interpenetrating biopolymer network to form a “second-skin” film In order to impart a new dimension to their natural polymers, SILAB researchers developed an avant-garde technology: the IBPN technology® (Interpenetrating BioPolymer Network Technology®). This innovation results in a network of interpenetrating biopolymers of galactomannans from Caesalpinia spinosa and of sulfated galactans from Kappaphycus alvarezii. It offers outstanding properties by forming a “second skin” film that is resistant, flexible and non-occlusive. The patented IBPN technology® is at the heart of the development of FILMEXEL®, a protective and lifting biopolymer available in preservative- free powder.


FHB technology®, the unique potential of functionalized helical biopolymer SILAB now presents LIFTILIENCE®, its 6th generation of tensors developed with a novel technology: the FHB technology® (Functionalized helical biopolymer technology®), which enables specifically selected native polysaccharides to be converted into functionalized helical biopolymers, for optimized tensor effect and adhesive properties. The resulting film-forming natural active ingredient derived from chestnuts thus offers multiple, rapid and long-lasting cosmetic benefits for the face and body.


PC


Figure 1: Schematic representation of the 30 years of Silab’s expertise in phytotensors www.personalcaremagazine.com


ZI de la Nau, 19240 Saint-Viance, France Tel.: +33 (0)5 55 84 58 40 silab@silab.fr www.silab.fr


February 2025 PERSONAL CARE


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