38 EMULSIFIERS
stability of co-enzyme Q10 at 50°C, and reliably protected retinol at both 25°C and 45°C, as shown in Figure 4. Leveraging an advanced encapsulation
technology like QSPP to enhance the stability - and therefore the efficacy - of well-known active ingredients aligns perfectly with current market trends. Consumers increasingly seek proven performance and minimalistic formulas that still deliver high-impact results. This makes QSPP a powerful tool for developing streamlined, yet effective, skincare products. Beyond ingredient protection, a QSPP-
based encapsulation system also elevates the sensory profile of cosmetic formulas. It imparts a refreshing feel, a velvety after-touch, and enhances the spreadability of rich natural oils or emollients, reducing greasiness and improving penetration of ingredients such as avocado oil. This results in a more luxurious sensory experience. Additionally, QSPP optimizes the dispersion
and homogeneity of powders, reducing the white cast commonly associated with titanium dioxide (TiO2
)-containing products and
delivering a smoother, softer finish overall. The ability to perform cost-effective in-
house encapsulation using QSPP provides formulators with significant flexibility, underscoring its dual functionality as both an emulsifier and an encapsulation system. As a groundbreaking two-in-one solution, QSPP stands out as an innovative, natural ingredient that combines two essential formulation benefits in a single product.
Elevating sun-protection skincare with UV-filter encapsulation One of the interesting encapsulation properties of QSPP lies in its ability to encapsulate mineral UV filters, such as titanium dioxide (TiO2
). As
awareness grows regarding the damaging effects of sunlight on the skin, the demand for daily skincare products with SPF (sun protection factor) continues to rise, making UV protection essential year-round. However, a common challenge of using in sunscreen formulations is this filter’s
TiO2
tendency to leave a visible white cast and produce formulations that are difficult to spread evenly. By encapsulating TiO2
with QSPP before
integrating it into an emulsion, formulators can achieve a more uniform dispersion of the powder. This improves the spreadability and texture of the product, significantly reducing the undesirable whitening effect while enhancing the softness and sensory appeal of the formulation. The result is a sunscreen that feels luxurious on the skin, making it ideal for daily use. In addition, as the spread is more homogenous, so is the protection it offers. To support formulators in creating advanced
sun care products with superior textures, we have developed the Mineral Protec’Sun texture. This high-performance sunscreen formula offers a smooth, homogenous application and a subtle luminous finish. Encapsulating 30% mineral UV filter dispersion, it delivers reliable sun protection while remaining sand- and
PERSONAL CARE February 2025 50 50 A Retinol stability overtime
Control emulsion with free Retinol ■ Emulsion with QSPP capsules of Retinol ■ 3M25°C
100 + 5% 50 + 20%
0 Fluid emulsion B Cream Retinyl Palmitate stability under sunlight Control solution with free retinyl palmitate ■ QSPP capsules of retinyl palmitate ■ 100
0 0 C 10 Days Co-enzyme Q10 Stability at 50°C
Control emulsion with free co-enzyme Q10 ■ Emulsion with QSPP capsules of co-enzyme Q10 ■ 100
20 30
0 0 10 Days
Figure 4: Improved stability of retinol (A), vitamin A palmitate (also known as retinyl palmitate) (B) and co-enzyme Q10 (C) obtained with QSPP
water-resistant, making it particularly well- suited for summer formulations. Additionally, it minimizes environmental impact by reducing the amount of product washed off into the sea, boosting both efficacy and eco-friendliness.
Conclusion As the demand for multifunctional, high- performance skincare continues to rise, Pickmulse™ - the QSPP developed by Lucas Meyer Cosmetics - represents a breakthrough in cosmetic formulation. Its dual functionality as a surfactant-free emulsifier and encapsulation system simplifies the formulation process while delivering exceptional benefits in terms of texture, stability, and sensory experience. By seamlessly integrating natural origins with cutting-edge technology, this new functional
ingredient enables formulators to meet the growing consumer expectation for products that are both gentle and effective. With the rise of psychodermatology, this new functional ingredient also aligns with the growing demand for cosmetics that go beyond aesthetics by offering holistic benefits that enhance wellbeing. Pickmulse represents a natural, sustainable, and scientifically validated ingredient that allows formulators to create innovative, high- performance skincare products that resonate with today’s informed and discerning consumers. All these benefits have already been
recognized by the cosmetic industry as the product was awarded the gold prize at the in- cosmetics Asia 2024 Innovation Awards, making it a microbiota-friendly ingredient of choice for the development of future formulas.
20 30
PC
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Quantity of co-enzyme Q10 vs. D0 (%)
Quantity of Retinyl palmitate vs. D0 (%)
Quantity of Retinol vs. D0 (%)
+20.8
+13.6 ➞
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