SKIN CARE
23
Figure 5: Before and after results of a subject using an anti-crepey skin formula with 5% heptapeptide 7 for 12 weeks. Before is on the left, after is on the right. The arrows indicate improved moisturization, wrinkle reduction, and reduced saggy skin
restructure your face back to a more youthful complexion. Our focus will be on possible topical treatments that can be taken to help mitigate or control the appearance of Ozempic face. From a topical treatment standpoint, our
logical solutions to crepey skin will involve preservation of extracellular matrix quality to offset intrinsic and extrinsic stressors. This is especially true for estrogen deficient skin (menopause), ideal treatments can help make up for the decline in certain signal activation pathways that is caused by estrogen deficiency. Additionally, remodeling is necessary to
break down damaged extracellular matrix components and promote production of new components in their place. Lastly, reducing skin irritation via thorough hydration and skin soothing components can assist as well. These solutions work to mitigate crepey skin onset, reduce skin fragility, and improve the appearance of crepey skin. Given this theoretical framework, let’s explore topical treatments with clinical evidence for reducing sagging skin.
Peptides Peptides are a cornerstone of the cosmetics industry since they are potent ligands that are pervasive in human physiology. They regulate many responses such as immunity, pigmentation, and wound healing. Wound-
Too short to fold Peptides
healing peptides in particular are commonly used for wrinkle reduction, turnover regulation, and extracellular matrix remodeling. This blend of properties makes them well
suited to take on the challenge of crepey skin, since the fundamental goal is to preserve skin integrity and remodel damaged structures. While there are several potential mechanisms peptides can work, ideally a focus should be placed on clinical efficacy for crepey skin since that is the primary endpoint. For instance, Gransome Heptapeptide 7 is a peptide with clinical evidence of reducing crepey skin and a clear mechanism of action supported by in vitro data. Heptapeptide 7 is a wound-healing peptide
that mimics EGF (epidermal growth factor) which is a well-known signaling molecule in skin. It works by promoting proliferation and migration of keratinocytes (turnover regulation), inducing a remodeling response in fibroblasts (collagen and elastin regulation), and reducing UV-induced DNA damage. Figure 3 illustrates several pathways
influenced by EGF agonists, specifically the survival, proliferation, and migration of cells. These pathways are not limited to those functions and can have several other effects as well. For example, RAF/MEK/ERK is also integral for remodeling as well. PI3K/AKT/mTOR are also known regulators of cell growth. That
is why wound healing pathways also coincide with ‘anti-ageing’ benefits. If we compare the pathways in Figure 3 to those in Figure 4 below, we can see several similarities. Figure 4 illustrates the influence of estrogen on wound healing pathways. Menopause entails a reduction in estrogen signaling, therefore activation of the MAPK/ ERK and PI3K/AKT pathways will be influenced as well. By mimicking EGF, Heptapeptide 7 can reduce this decline and thus help to maintain skin integrity. Understanding the pathways is important, but the true weight of an active is shown by its clinical efficacy. To asses this, a 12-week study was carried out on 12 subjects of 50+ years age presenting signs of crepey skin. A formulation containing 5% Heptapeptide 7 was used, the other ingredients consisted of traditionally ‘inactive’ components such as elastomers, emollients, emulsifiers, etc. The focus of the study was on the visual appearance of crepey skin and skin elasticity (measured by cutometer and pinch recoil tests). Figure 5 illustrates a visual result of the trial
which shows a dramatic reduction in crepey skin. Numerically, this coincided to a 30.56% reduction in the appearance of crepey skin by week 8 and 36.11% by week 12. The improvement in skin integrity was supported by a double digit improvement in elasticity values (cutometer)
Long enough fold into a stable 3D structure Miniproteins no folding 3-D folding 3-D folding Proteins
Small enough to penetrate the skin
Too large to penetrate Figure 6: Demonstration of miniprotein properties compared to peptides and proteins. Miniproteins are a middle ground between the two in terms of size
www.personalcaremagazine.com February 2025 PERSONAL CARE
Folding threshold
Skin barrier
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92
