SKIN CARE
keratin, which helps retain moisture and protect against environmental damage. The botanicals contained in the new
ingredient are rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals, which play a crucial role in promoting skin health and combating signs of ageing. Antioxidants found in these plants help
neutralize free radicals, reducing oxidative stress and promoting a youthful appearance. Moreover, the natural oils derived from these botanicals provide hydration, enhance elasticity, and improve overall skin texture. By focusing on the specific structural
biochemical similarities, Figure 4 shows that - despite their diverse functions and overall structures - keratin, agglutinin, and globulin proteins share fundamental biochemical properties that underlie their respective roles in biological systems. From the secondary structure point of view,
keratin is rich in alpha helices, particularly in alpha-keratin, forming a coiled-coil structure. Agglutinins and globulins also have important alpha helix regions, which contribute to their overall stability. In this regard, keratin, as well as amaranth agglutinins and globulins, are rich in disulfide bonds (covalent bonds between cysteine residues), which are also crucial for the stability and proper folding of these proteins.
Versatility in formulations The active is a highly adaptable ingredient that can be incorporated into a wide range of skin care and haircare products, including moisturizers, serums, cleansers, masks, and anti- ageing formulations. Its hydrating, soothing, and anti-ageing properties make it an ideal addition to various skin care applications. Moreover, it is perfect for use in shampoos, conditioners, hair masks, and leave-in treatments, providing nourishing benefits for hair.
Functionality evaluation To verify the repairing and the protective effect in hair care, a test was carried out on hair locks, followed by scanning microscope analysis and measurement of the resistance to breakage. Hair locks were washed daily for seven days
with warm water for seven days, using two different shampoos: a commercial shampoo without conditioning agents and a shampoo enriched with 0.5% of the active ingredient. At the end of the treatments, it was
conducted a detailed scanning microscope analysis, revealing that the locks treated with the commercial shampoo presented open scales. On the other hand, locks treated with the shampoo containing the active showed uniformity, a smooth and healthy hair fibre (Figure 5). For skin care, the active ingredient has been
clinically tested for hydration, elasticity and wrinkle depth. A panel consisting of ten women aged
between 30 to 50 received an eye contour enriched with 0.5% active agent. A detailed analysis was conducted with an ARAMO-SG skin analyzer, both at the beginning and after seven days of the treatment. To ensure the functionality of the ingredient, the evaluation focused on key indicators:
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Deep expression lines and evident dark circles under the eyes
hydration levels, skin elasticity, and wrinkle depth. The results of the assessment revealed an increase in hydration and skin elasticity. In addition, it was observed a reduction in wrinkle depth confirming the efficacy of the active (Figure 6). The results were optimal and demonstrated
the capacity of the active ingredient to make the treated hair locks smoother and stronger, and showed to benefit all measured parameters in the eye contour area.
Reduced expression lines and dark circles under the eyes
Figure 6: Representative images of the eye contour area of a participant in the evaluation of a product containing 0.5% active
Conclusion In conclusion, Active Protect is a shining example of how Esperis and Bioingre skilfully blend advanced technology with the ancient wisdom of indigenous Mexican plants, honouring centuries- old traditions while promoting innovation in modern skin and hair care. This harmonious fusion of cutting-edge science
and deeply rooted natural heritage enables the development of highly effective products that can meet the needs of consumers.
PC February 2025 PERSONAL CARE
Figure 5: Electron microscopy images of a non-treated control hair fibre, in contrast with a fibre treated with a shampoo containing 0.5 % new active ingredient
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